Monday, 19 January 2015

Baked Lemon Cheesecake

If you love lemons, you HAVE to make this cheesecake. I know that I seem to say this every time I post a lemon recipe… but really words cannot describe how delicious this particular cheesecake is!
 
The cheesecake consists of a biscuit crumb base, topped with a surprisingly light cheesecake filling and then a candied lemon layer finishing it off. The cheesecake is baked rather than set with gelatine (or other setting agent) but it tastes so fresh and whilst rich, is not heavy or dense – you’d almost be fooled into thinking that it was one of the set varieties.
 
I was bemoaning how miserable January can be – and believe me last week really felt like the most tedious of weeks where everything was such an ordeal - but when faced with a dessert like this, you cannot help but feel positive, hopeful and optimistic. This is what I love about citrus fruits… they tend to be at their best (in this part of the world anyway) when the weather is its coldest and most bleak.
 
The great thing about lemons in particular, is that they cut through the richness of the dishes in which they are used and, in something like this cheesecake, which really focuses on the lemon flavour, they impart a zingy quality which makes them seem ‘lighter’ to eat. Having said this, a LOT of cream cheese and sugar is included, but this is allowable every now-and-again as a treat.
 
Whilst the cheesecake would be lovely on its own, without the candied lemon topping, I really think that it emphasises and celebrates the flavour of the lemon and looks so beautiful glistening on top of the cheesecake. The key to making the topping is to slice the lemons into thin slices using a sharp knife. If preferred, you could place fresh raspberries or strawberries on top instead… but I urge you to try the candied topping because it is seriously delicious!
 
This is a very straightforward recipe and success is easy to achieve, so do have a go at making it. You could use other citrus fruits, but for me, nothing beats lemons!
 

Ingredients:

Base:
200g digestive biscuits
75g butter, melted
Filling:
600g cream cheese (full-fat)
250g caster sugar
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
150g yoghurt (I used Glenisk Natural Yoghurt)
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
Juice of 1 lemon
50g plain flour, sieved
Topping:
2 lemons, thinly sliced
125g caster sugar
125ml water
 

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 120C/Fan Oven 100C/Gas Mark ¼. Grease the base and sides of a 20cm round springform tin with butter and line the base with a circle of non-stick baking parchment. Set aside.
Base:
2. Place the biscuits into a freezer bag and bash into crumbs using a rolling pin (you can also use a food processor to do this). Place the biscuit crumbs into a small mixing bowl and pour on the melted butter. Mix with a wooden spoon so that all the crumbs are coated in butter and then press into the bottom of the prepared tin, levelling the surface with the back of a metal spoon. Place in the fridge to harden up while you make the filling.
Filling:
3. Place the cream cheese and caster sugar into a medium sized mixing bowl and beat together using a hand-held electric mixer. Once incorporated, add the eggs, mixing them in thoroughly, but avoid over-mixing as this can cause the cheesecake to crack when it is baked.
4. Add the yoghurt, lemon zest and juice and mix these in and finally add the flour, making sure that it is also fully incorporated.
5. Pour the mixture on top of the chilled base and gently shake the tin from side-to-side to even it out. Bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes. It should still seem wobbly in the centre. Leave in the switched off oven for another hour and then remove and allow to cool completely. Chill until ready to serve.
Topping:
6. Place the lemon slices in a small saucepan and barely cover them with boiling water. Allow to bubble for 1 minute and then drain and plunge the lemon slices into cold water to refresh.
7. Place the caster sugar and 125ml water into a small saucepan, place over a moderate heat, let the sugar dissolve and bring to the boil. Reduce heat so that the syrup is just gently simmering.
8. Drain the lemon slices and place into the syrup. All to simmer for 30 minutes and then allow to cool in the syrup.
To serve:
9. Arrange the cooled candied lemon slices on top of the chilled cheesecake and serve cut into slices.
 
Serves 10-12.
 

Thursday, 15 January 2015

Sherry Trifle

Well… trifle is one of those dishes that people really seem to have strong opinions about. For some, it MUST contain jelly, whilst others see this as a travesty. Some people like it with instant, mass-produced ‘custard’ whilst others like it with a real egg custard. I think that the custard of preference for each individual is very much based on whatever you had and became familiar with as you were growing up. For me a ‘proper’ trifle is the sherry- laced version that my grandmother used to make and serve after Christmas dinner and for other celebratory meals.
 
I have never had particularly strong opinions about whether a trifle should or should not contain jelly and I like trifles with and without jelly. The one thing that I am adamant about is that a trifle must contain real custard, made from scratch with milk/cream and eggs.
 
My grandmother’s trifle was a sweet confection containing sponge cake layers sandwiched together with strawberry jam (but I always use raspberry jam/conserve because I prefer it) and then soak these in a medium-dry sherry. She used to line the bowl with boudoir biscuits – sugary dry sponge biscuits - which looked so decorative standing side-by-side with almost military rigidity around the edge of her trifle bowl. On top of the sponge layers she would dollop thick homemade custard and once this had set, she would top everything off with softly whipped cream and a scattering of toasted flaked almonds. You will note that no jelly was ever included because; unlike me, my grandmother had VERY strong opinions on this issue. In essence this is a very simple dish, but one that is so comforting and delicious to eat and, in truth, it is so much more than the sum of its parts.
 
This trifle is a dolled-up version of the one that my grandmother used to make. Rather than use shop-bought sponge cake, I made my own and rolled it into a swiss-roll from which I cut slices to decorate the edge of the bowl.  I have always liked the dry crunch of boudoir biscuits and I think that you definitely need something with a bit of a crunchy texture because otherwise everything becomes a bit ‘gloopy’… so I roughly broke up some boudoirs and scattered them around the sherry soaked sponge cake in the centre of the trifle. Even though my grandmother rarely used fresh fruit in her trifle, I like to, so here I have included some fresh raspberries, but you could use frozen ones just as well. On top of this goes homemade custard and softly whipped cream. I finished it off with some toasted almonds and a few cape gooseberries, because I actually like their taste and because they just look so exotically beautiful.
 
This trifle looks so much more complicated than it is, in reality, to make. The thing about trifles is that they are whatever you want them to be and using the basic template of sponge cake, custard, cream (and jelly if you so wish) you can create whatever you like using different alcohol in place of the sherry and different fruits. I’ve talked before about my love of all things kitsch and really you can’t get more kitsch, in food terms, than trifle.
 

Ingredients:

Swiss-roll:
4 large eggs
100g caster sugar, plus a little extra for rolling
100g self-raising flour
150g raspberry jam/conserve
Custard:
4 large egg yolks
70g caster sugar
35g cornflour
1tsp vanilla extract
600ml milk
300ml cream
Filling:
100g boudoir biscuits (or amaretti) broken into large chunks
200ml – 250ml medium dry sherry
125g raspberries, fresh or frozen
To finish:
250ml whipping cream
25g flaked almonds, lightly toasted in a dry frying pan
6-8 cape gooseberries
 

Method:

Swiss-roll:
1. Preheat the oven to 220C/Fan Oven 200C/Gas Mark 7. Line a large (approximately 30cm x 23cm) baking tray/swiss-roll tin with non-stick baking parchment and set aside.
2. Place the eggs and caster sugar in a large bowl and using a hand-held electric mixer, whisk together for 5-7 minutes on high speed until the mixture is light and fluffy and has increased in volume.
3. Sift the flour into the eggs and using a large metal spoon fold in gently until the flour is fully incorporated. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and give it a gentle shake so that the mixture is evenly distributed. Bake in the preheated oven for 10-12 minutes until the sponge is a light golden brown and beginning to shrink bake from the sides of the tin.
4. Lay a sheet of baking parchment on your work surface (this should be slightly larger all way around than the sponge). Lightly sprinkle a little caster sugar onto this sheet of parchment.
5. Turn the sponge out onto the sheet of parchment and carefully peel of the paper used to line the tray.
6. Allow the sponge to cool slightly and then spread with the raspberry jam going to within 1cm of the edge of the sponge. Start rolling the sponge up tightly along its long edge to create a 30cm long sponge cylinder encasing the jam.
7. Cut into slices about 2cms thick and use these to line the trifle bowl, pressing the cut side against the edge of the bowl. Pile the remaining slices into the middle of the bowl along with the boudoir biscuits/amaretti.  Pour the sherry over the sponge and set aside to give it a chance to soak in.
Custard:
8. Place the egg yolks, caster sugar and cornflour into a medium sized mixing bowl and using a small whisk, mix together until fully combined. Add the vanilla extract and mix this through.
9. Separately put the milk and cream into a medium saucepan over a moderate heat and bring almost up to boiling point and then remove. Gradually whisk the milk into the egg mixture, stirring all the time. Return all the mixture to the saucepan and place over a gentle heat and stir continuously until the mixture thickens and just starts to bubble. Take off the heat and pour the custard into a clean bowl. Cover the surface of the custard directly with cling film and allow to cool.
To finish:
10. Sprinkle the raspberries over the sherry soaked sponge and pour over the cooled custard. Place into the fridge to set for about 30 minutes and just before serving, whisk the cream into soft peaks and spread on top of the custard. Top with the toasted flaked almonds and finish off by decorating with the cape gooseberries.

Serves 10-12.
 
 



 


 

Tuesday, 13 January 2015

Pear & Almond Upside-Down Cake

Almond and pear is a marriage made in heaven and where this cake in concerned, it is definitely true. If you like pears, you will love this cake. It is moist and buttery with a juicy topping of sweetly caramelised pears. I have also included some whole walnuts alongside the pears to create textural contrast and because I just love the pear/walnut combination. One of the great things about pears is that they go wonderfully with almost any type of nut and also taste fabulous with spices such as ginger, cinnamon and cardamom.

I often wonder why pears aren’t more popular than they are, because in my opinion that have a far more complex flavour than apples and when just ripe, they can’t be beaten in terms of flavour. I think that part of the reason is that pears are a more temperamental crop to grown requiring a sheltered perspective and settled growing conditions. So many of the pears that are sold these days are under-ripe and like hard bullets. It is no wonder that when faced with these, consumers are distinctly underwhelmed… but a perfectly ripe pear is truly something wondrous to behold; sweet with a juicy flesh and almost honey like taste – well.... they just taste heavenly.
 
The fact that pears tend to be sold at a slightly under-ripe stage makes them perfect for cooking or baking with, where the warmth of the oven or hob helps soften them and bring out their natural sweetness. Ripe pears would disintegrate to a mush especially in a cake like this which requires over an hour’s baking.
 
There are loads of recipes out there for upside-down cakes, but this is a truly delicious version full of the flavour of the pears.
 
As usual, I looked upon the baking of this cake as a good excuse to add a glug of almond liqueur – one of my favourites! Needless to say this was a wonderful addition which really accentuated the flavour of the almonds in the cake batter. This cake also makes a wonderful dessert where a dollop of cream on the side wouldn’t go astray. Alternatively, it is also fab served slightly warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Ingredients:

Topping:
30g butter, softened
30g light brown muscovado sugar
A pinch of ground cinnamon
Cake:
3 slightly under-ripe pears, peeled, cored and halved
A handful of walnuts
300g butter, softened
250g caster sugar
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
150g self-raising flour sifted
150g ground almonds
25ml Amaretto
 

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 170C/Fan Oven 150C/Gas Mark 3. Grease and base-line a deep 20cm spring-form tin with removable base and set aside.
Topping:
2. Beat all the ingredients together with a wooden spoon until mixed together. Rub this mixture onto the bottom of the prepared tin and set aside.
Cake:
3. Place the butter and sugar into a large mixing bowl and using a hand-held electric mixer, beat together until light and fluffy. Gradually add in the eggs, mixing well after each addition. Add in the sifted flour and mix briefly to just combine. Fold in the ground almonds and mix in the Amaretto.
4. Place the halved pears cut-side against the bottom of the tin. I arranged mine in an orderly circle but you can arrange them more randomly, if you prefer.  Squeeze some whole walnuts in the gaps between the pears and then spoon the cake batter all over the pears. Level off the surface with a spatula or the back of a metal spoon and bake in the preheated oven for 70-80 minutes. Check the cake after 40 minutes or so and if it is browning too quickly, cover with a lid of foil. The cake is ready when a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.

Serves 8-10.