Review: Afternoon Tea at Farnham Estate Golf & Spa Resort, Cavan

The luxurious Farnham Estate Golf & Spa resort is situated in spectacular countryside not far from Cavan Town and is a lovely mix between the old and the new. Period buildings sit comfortably beside the modern architecture of the newer parts of the hotel. This is a place where guests can enjoy contemporary comforts along with the traditions of years gone by.

 

Afternoon tea in Farnham Estate is an elegant affair served in either the Music Room or in the Middle Drawing Room in the original main house and is available between 1pm and 5pm daily. I was welcomed by Conor who showed me to my table in the Music Room which was dressed with a crisp white linen tablecloth. Seated on a large comfortable couch in the beautiful room which was tastefully decorated in soothing colours, I felt like I was in a different world.

 

Art Deco stand

The Afternoon Tea Menu is nicely laid out with a good range of sandwiches and pastries available. Scones are also included and come with raspberry jam, butter and clotted cream. At €25 per person it is reasonably priced. You can also elect to have a Champagne Afternoon Tea which includes a glass of Moet & Chandon (€40 per person) or Prosecco Afternoon Tea with a glass of Prosecco frizzante (€34 per person), which I decided to go for.  This was served with a small bowl of fresh ripe strawberries which I nibbled on as I sipped my Prosecco and decided which tea to choose.

 

There is a good choice of teas available including black teas, green teas and herbal infusions which are supplied by Ronnefeldt. Tea is taken very seriously in Farnham Estate with each, depending on your choice, requiring different ‘drawing’ times. Loose leaf tea is served in warmed china tea-pots and you are given a little tea-timer which indicates when your tea is ready to pour. Impressed by the selection available I eventually chose the Irish Whiskey Cream – a flavoured malty assam, this black tea has wonderful background notes of whiskey and chocolate. I absolutely loved it.

 

Smoked Salmon

As my tea was drawing, sandwiches, pastries and scones were delivered to the table by Conor. Presented on a pretty 3-tiered Art Deco cake stand they looked extremely tempting and I couldn’t wait to dig in.

 

The sandwiches, all of which use breads that are baked on the premises, are filled with an interesting combination of ingredients. I was very impressed with the breads as each was baked to perfection and full of flavour. The Multigrain Bread, Smoked Salmon, Lime & Tomato Mayonnaise was lovely and was beautifully presented as an open sandwich with the salmon formed into a rosette which was placed on the bread in a decorative fashion.  The mayonnaise was particularly flavoursome and complimented the salmon perfectly.

 

Ham, Cheese, Relish

The next sandwich – a Sour Dough, Porterhouse Cheese, McCarren’s Ham & Ballymaloe Relish was also very good with top quality ingredients used throughout. The mini sour dough baguette was excellent and I loved the sweet fruitiness of the Ballymaloe Relish with the well-flavoured cheese.

 

The final offering, and my favourite, was another open sandwich that looked stunning. Tomato Bread, Vine Cherries, Goat’s Cheese Mousse with Pistachio Crumb was heavenly to eat with flavours that danced in the mouth. All too often tomato breads are bland but this one was packed full of tomato flavour which accentuated the soft creaminess of the goat’s cheese perfectly. The pistachio crumb was a nice touch and added an extra layer of flavour and texture. Delicious!

 

Fruit Tart

At this stage I was feeling very relaxed and was thoroughly enjoying the whole experience so after a short hiatus decided to move on to the pastries. Again, these little bite-sized treats were beautiful to behold and it was obvious that a lot of skill and understanding of the processes involved had gone into making them.

 

The range of pastries was very good and included a Chocolate Brownie which was soft and chewy and made as a brownie should be and a light and airy White Chocolate Cheesecake topped with a tart lime jelly which cut through the sweetness of the white chocolate. These were both very good and well thought-out.

 

I also loved the little Tart with Vanilla Custard & Fresh Soft Fruit. The pastry crumbled pleasingly in the mouth and contrasted well against the creamy filling whilst the fresh fruit cleansed the palate. The tart tasted delicious and was extremely pretty to look at.

 

Carrot Cake

A very well-made Carrot Cake was the final pastry/cake offering. Iced with a sweet but slightly tangy cream cheese frosting this was extremely good. Too often carrot cakes are dry, lack flavour and are engulfed by too much icing. Here, the balance was perfect.

 

Scones provided the finale to the afternoon tea and were very good indeed. Light with a slightly chewy crumb, they were served warm which I really liked. Split and then spread with butter and jam and topped with a dollop of clotted cream, I truly felt as if I hadn’t a care in the world. With the scones, I decided to try another of the wonderful teas offered as part of the Farnham Estate Afternoon Tea and chose Granny’s Garden a fruity herbal infusion made with fresh rhubarb and vanilla bourbon. This was something different to what I would normally choose but I really enjoyed it.

 

Scone, Clotted Cream & Jam

Afternoon Tea in Farnham house was one of the most relaxing afternoons I have had in a long time. You are encouraged to sit back and enjoy the whole experience and you never feel rushed by the wonderful staff. My waiter Conor was highly knowledgeable on all aspects of the afternoon tea and the history of Farnham Estate. Ably assisted by the lovely Ronan, the two of them made the whole experience all the more enjoyable.

 

Radisson Blu Farnham Estate Golf & Spa Resort

Farnham Estate

Cavan

 

Telephone: 049-4377700

Email: info.farnham@radissonblu.com

 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

 

Restaurant Review: The Vintage Kitchen, Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2

Trying to get a table for dinner in The Vintage Kitchen proved a little more challenging than I had first anticipated. This is an incredibly popular restaurant which, it emerges, requires booking well in advance in order to secure a much sought-after table especially if you wish to dine on a Friday or Saturday evening. I eventually managed to get a booking for an early Tuesday evening sitting but was warned that my table would be required again at 9pm. Despite this, I was looking forward to dining there and to trying the food for myself.

Bread Selection

The Vintage Kitchen is located in the heart of the city next door to Mulligan’s, the iconic Dublin pub and is not far from O’Connell Street and the River Liffey. The restaurant has 35 covers but given the Lilliputian size of the premises, it’s hard to believe that it is possible to fit that number in at one sitting. Tables are placed extremely close to each other but this, along with its retro-kitsch décor, is part of the charm of The Vintage Kitchen. Dining there is like stepping back into your Granny’s kitchen to a time when Formica was all the rage.

 

The restaurant operates a very appealing BYOB policy charging no corkage provided you order at least two courses, including a main, from the menu. Doubtlessly, this plays a part in its popularity but the real test of a restaurant is the quality of its cooking and the food that it serves.

 

Goat's Cheese Parfait

The dinner menu which is available from Tuesday to Saturday each week is well-constructed and full of tempting classic comfort food dishes. I would quite happily have ordered any of them. As we waited on our starters to arrive we nibbled on slices of a very respectable Malted Wholegrain Loaf that came with a pleasant Hummus dip and chatted with an American couple who were holidaying in Ireland and were dining at the next table.

 

I loved my Boilie Log Goat’s Cheese Parfait starter which included a very generous portion of mild goat’s cheese which was delightfully creamy to eat. Sweet and earthy roasted beetroots accentuated the flavour of the cheese whilst slices of fresh apricot provided welcome freshness on the palate. I particularly liked the inclusion of caramelised red pearl onions which imparted a wonderful bitter-sweet stickiness that was hard to resist. For me, the slow-cooked tomatoes were redundant and added nothing to the dish but overall it was a lovely way to begin the meal. A warm and spicy wasabi dressing was something a little different and worked well.

 

Cod & Lumpfish Caviar

Erica’s starter of Donegal Smoked Haddock Chowder, Chorizo & Wild Samphire came presented in an individual soup tureen/bowl with its own lid which, when lifted, allowed the seductive aromas of the chowder to escape. With the smokiness of the fish and the spiciness of the chorizo, this was a dish that it would have been quite easy to get wrong but it was an incredibly well-balanced and a perfectly seasoned dish. I really enjoyed the addition of the samphire with its gentle flavour of the sea. Put simply, this was one of the most delicious chowders I have ever eaten and looking at the expression on Erica’s face I could see that she agreed.

 

Baked Crepe

My main course of Pan-Fried Atlantic Cod, White Beans, Roaring Bay Mussels, Cajun & Tomato Bisque, with Lump Fish Caviar was another substantial dish but one that was packed full of flavour. The flawlessly cooked cod came away in generous flakes which were lovely with the braised cannellini beans. The dish was beautifully presented and came served with a spoonful of lump fish ‘caviar’ which was placed on top of the cod in a scallop shell. The saltiness of the caviar helped balance out the sweet spiciness of the dish and provided a further layer of flavour.

 

Erica decided to go for the vegetarian main of Baked Crêpe, Carlow Field Mushrooms, Gorgonzola & Spinach which was served with sautéed baby new potatoes. Here, the crêpe had been placed in a small dish which was used as a receptacle into which the rich filling of blue cheese, spinach and sautéed mushrooms was placed before being baked. The dish arrived piping hot to the table with the cheesy filling bubbling away enticing us to dig in immediately. This was comforting and delicious food and the type of dish you would eat to warm you up on a cold and wintry evening.

 

Lemon Cheesecake

Portions are large in The Vintage Kitchen so, feeling quite full, I considered skipping dessert. However, the allure of the Lemon Cheesecake proved too much for me to resist, so we decided to share one between us. Served in an individual Kilner jar this was a surprisingly light mousse-like interpretation of a cheesecake which was topped with a thick layer of tart lemon curd and some boozy autumn berries. It was delicious. Between us, we polished it off. It was the perfect end to a hugely enjoyable meal.

 

Service was extremely efficient and was delivered in a charming and engaging fashion. The Vintage Kitchen is quirky and a fun place to dine in. Most importantly the food is fabulous and the dinner menu at €28 for 2 courses or €34 for 3 courses is extremely competitively priced.
 

The Vintage Kitchen

Poolbeg Street

Dublin 2

 

Telephone: 01-6798705

Website: www.thevintagekitchen.ie

Opening hours:

Lunch: Tuesday to Saturday, 11.45am – 2.30pm

Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 10.00pm

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie
 

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Restaurant Review: The Chef's Table by Stefan Matz, Delphi Adventure Resort, Leenane, County Galway

Sometimes familiarity breeds contempt but as I left the bustling town of Westport to drive along the narrow roads of Mweelrea Mountain on my way to Delphi Adventure Resort recently, I was reminded what a truly beautiful country Ireland is. Mountain sheep wander freely here and I had to stop driving a number of times as they paused in front of my car to gaze disdainfully at me before languorously strolling away in search of fresh heathers and grasses to graze on. The Connemara countryside is wild and stunningly beautiful and unlike anything you would see elsewhere in the world. 

Bread Selection

Although the main purpose of my visit to Delphi was to dine in The Chef’s Table restaurant which opened there recently, I decided to avail of a relaxing one-night break away in the luxurious 4 star hotel accommodation which is also available. While Delphi is renowned for the exciting adventure sports and outdoor activities it offers, I was in search of something that would give me a chance to unwind after a busy few weeks. I found my time in Delphi soothing and peaceful and enjoyed every moment.

The Chef’s Table is a new venture by award winning German chef Stefan Matz, who many people will recognise from his time as Head Chef in Ashford Castle, The g Hotel and at Erriseask House where he was awarded a Michelin star.

The restaurant is warm and inviting with an open kitchen where you can observe Stefan cooking. I was lucky to get seated in a prime position beside the kitchen and was mesmerised watching the food being prepared. Although an à la carte menu is available I decided to try the 5 course tasting menu. Feeling in an indulgent mood I also elected to have the accompanying wine recommendations.

Sweet Potato Mousse

The breads in The Chef’s Table were some of the most interesting that I have eaten in a long while and included Pine Nut Brioche, Tarragon & Beer Bread, a Cornbread Roll, Garlic Cracker and Brown Treacle Bread all of which were well made and packed full of flavour. They came served with butter, olive oil and a rather addictive Romesco Sauce.

An amuse bouche of Sweet Potato Mousse, Sweet Potato Crisp and Carrot Leaf came simply presented in a shot glass. This possessed a clarity of flavour that made it the perfect opening to the meal. The mousse was light yet rich and creamy which made it incredibly pleasurable to eat. A successful amuse bouche should be a statement of intent and an indication of what is to follow. This mousse proved to be exactly that.

Lobster & Porcupine Prawn

The next dish, a Salad of Killary Lobster and Porcupine Prawn, Baked Apple & Basil was beautiful to look at and not at all what I had expected on reading the menu. The lobster was presented as a paper-thin ribbon of mousse beside a refreshing salad of apple and prawn bound together in a creamy mayonnaise-type dressing which also included baked apple gel. A regal looking prawn sat on his salad throne surrounded by a halo of crisp dried apple. Porcupine prawns - so called because they are fished from the Porcupine Bank in the Irish Sea - are flavoursome little devils full of sweet but meaty flavours. Here, the prawn had been wrapped in threads of potato which were beautifully crispy against the soft meat of the prawn. I loved it.  The accompanying Domain Felines Jourdan, Picpoul had enough acidity to cut through the richness of the lobster and prawns and to compliment the freshness of the apple and was a well-judged pairing.

Salmon & Blackcurrant

Next up was the rather intriguing Fillet of Wild Salmon with Blackcurrant Vinaigrette. I have never considered eating salmon with blackcurrants before but this dish was a revelation. The blackcurrants provided a rich, tart and slightly acidic sauce that cut through the oily richness of the perfectly cooked top-quality salmon that had been caught locally in the River Erriff. This was a finely balanced dish that was exciting to eat. A glass of a light, dry Fleurie, Coeur de Granit was a perfect match as it didn’t overpower the oily salmon but stood up well to the blackcurrants.

Fillet beef, three ways

I loved every part of the Cucumber Granita, Beer Jelly, Olive Oil Gel and Oat Crumb which was then served. Sorbets are often served as palate cleansers but in many ways the more crystalline nature of a granita works more effectively in this regard. This was a delicately presented dish that refreshed the palate yet re-energised it in preparation for the rest of the meal. I especially loved the beer jelly as its hop-rich earthiness provided a contrast to the intensely flavoured cucumber granita. An olive oil gel was an innovative addition that further soothed the palate.

Moving on, the Angus Fillet of Beef, Roasted, Smoked and Pickled, Button Mushrooms and Cream Potatoes, French Duck Foie Gras Crumble was a rich dish with autumnal overtones. Despite the fact that the wonderfully tender beef was served in three different ways, unity was achieved by subtle flavour variations and the use of a wonderful sauce that brought everything together in a cohesive way. A deeply savoury foie gras crumb provided textural contrast and was delicious. This was a real crowd-pleaser of a dish and one that would appeal to a broad audience. Washed down with a glass of a well-rounded and very drinkable Tour de Mirambeau which was soft and ripe on the palate, I was unable to stifle my sighs of satisfaction.

Goat's Cheesecake

Baked Goat’s Cheesecake & Marmalade of Red Bell Peppers was a wonderful transition dish between the early parts of the menu and the dessert as sweet and savoury were cleverly balanced. A gently flavoured goat’s cheese had been used to create an interesting interpretation of a classic cheesecake which was velvety smooth and a joy to eat.

After all the wonderful food that I had eaten I was slightly concerned that I would struggle to finish the final course. I needn’t have worried as the Watermelon, Lime, Caramelised Ginger & Vanilla Ice-Cream was everything that a great dessert should be; full of fresh and zingy flavours but still indulgent and a little bit naughty. Compressed watermelon had been macerated in tomato juice which was inspired as the slight acidity of the tomatoes cut through the headily perfumed watermelon which tasted wonderful with the zingy lime curd and ginger shortbread crumb it was served with. I loved the accompanying La Grille Rosé D’Anjou with its hint of strawberries and apricot and thought it was wonderful with the dessert.

Watermelon

Along with Tea or Coffee the 5 course tasting meal (which included extra courses) came to €49 which for the quality of the food I ate represented astonishing value. Interesting wine pairings added to my enjoyment of the meal and also added €35 on to the bill. Stefan Matz is producing outstanding food packed full of sophisticated flavour combinations using local ingredients and has developed a menu that has that most elusive quality – broad appeal. This is superb cooking in a beautiful location and I would recommend it without hesitation.

 

The Chef’s Table by Stefan Matz

Delphi Adventure Resort

Leenane

Connemara

County Galway

 

Telephone: 095-42208

Web: delphiadventureresort.com

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

Cucumber Granita

Restaurant Review: VM Restaurant, Viewmount House, Longford

Viewmount House, a beautiful Georgian house lovingly restored by James and Beryl Kearney is set on four acres of magnificent gardens on the outskirts of Longford Town. The house, originally built in 1740, was once home to the Earl of Longford but these days is a boutique hotel offering luxurious, stylish accommodation and first-rate food in the attached VM Restaurant.

 

I have stayed here before and can confirm that there is something very special about Viewmount House. With its exquisite grounds, comfortable rooms and great restaurant, it represents the perfect destination for anyone seeking a relaxing break with top-notch food and impeccable service.

 

Selection of Bread

The impressive ground floor dining room which houses VM Restaurant is located in the original stable buildings which have been converted to create a spacious area with a high ceiling and large windows that look out on to the immaculately maintained gardens.

 

The menu reads extremely well with choices to suit most palates. It changes regularly to take advantage of what is seasonably available and where possible, Head Chef Gary O’Hanlon uses produce that has been locally sourced. Although still in time for the Early Bird menu which finished at 7.30pm and is served on Wednesdays and Thursdays only, we decided to go for the Dinner menu instead.

 

Duck Leg Confit Terrine

Bread is made from scratch on the premises and a good selection is offered including White Bread and slices of an Apricot & Walnut Loaf - both of which were flavoursome and had good texture with a nice crust.  My favourite however, was an outstanding Guinness & Treacle Brown Soda Bread which had a wonderfully moist and chewy texture. Thickly spread with butter it was impossible to improve on. The bread was served with butter and a nicely spiced Red Pepper Hummus.

 

Our meal then kicked off with an amuse bouche of Thornhill Duck Leg Confit & Salt Baked Celeriac Terrine. This was an unconventional way to serve the duck as the meat had been removed from the bone and shredded to form the basis of the terrine. It came presented with carrot, a sweet and earthy baby beetroot purée and a particularly well-made piquant celeriac remoulade. Powdered duck fat completed the dish and added a vaguely salty element which dissolved pleasingly on the tongue. We really enjoyed it.

 

Pork Cheek

My starter of Beetroot Cured Clare Island Organic Salmon was a beautifully presented and colourful dish. The inclusion of some lightly pickled shitake mushrooms was an inspired addition to the plate as their texture (which was reminiscent of cooked oysters) complimented the salmon perfectly. Furthermore, the pickling juices of the mushrooms along with the small segments of fresh pink grapefruit which had also been included cut through the richness of the salmon. A fresh and citrusy quinoa salad provided interesting textural contrast. This was a very clever dish which showcased the excellent quality of the salmon that had been used.

 

John’s starter of Braised Rare Breed Pork Cheek, Grain Mustard & White Onion Bisque looked and smelled absolutely delicious. Here the pork had been slowly braised and showed no resistance to the lightest of pressure applied by the fork. The soft and succulent pork was so satisfying to eat and was perfect with the smooth mustard and onion bisque. Garnished with crispy potato flakes and seasoned with onion salt, this was a rich dish full of intense gutsy flavours.

 

Jelly & Yoghurt

As part of its Dinner menu the VM Restaurant offers an optional extra course which is served before the mains. After a rich starter, John enjoyed his light and refreshing Jelly of Viewmount Blackberry and Richmount Farm Elderflower, Glenisk Organic Natural Yoghurt which came presented in a tiny Kilner jar. The jelly was tart having been barely sweetened and together with the thin layer of tangy yoghurt that it was topped with created a dish with wonderful palate cleansing properties. By way of contrast my velvety Celeriac Soup was a substantial dish. It included generous chunks of slightly salty ham that accentuated the natural sweetness of the celeriac and was comforting to eat.

 

Chicken

I settled on Wild Irish Sea Bream for my main course. This was another attractive looking dish which included two large sea bream fillets which had been carefully cooked so that the flesh was soft and succulent and the skin wonderfully crispy. Served along with fresh orange segments and a lively citrus beurre blanc this was a light yet satisfying dish. Compressed marinated fennel added another layer of flavour and a pine nut and almond crumble provided textural contrast.

 

John selected the Irish Free Range Chicken with Celeriac Mornay, for his main course. The celeriac mornay was inventively presented as a smooth purée onto which well-cooked, moist and tender pieces of roast chicken were placed. A chorizo, butternut squash and spiced walnut nage inspired by the flavours of the Middle-East worked well with the delicate chicken to create an interesting and elegant interpretation of a classic roast chicken dinner. Garden peas and pea-shoots completed the dish.

 

Honey Sponge, Popcorn ice-Cream

Intrigued by the sound of the popcorn ice-cream on offer, I decided to pick the Warm Citrus & Honey Sponge, Candied Popcorn, Salted Caramel & Popcorn Ice-Cream for dessert. Here citrus juices were used along with honey to create a light but not overly sweet sponge cake with a lovely texture. This sat on top of a generous ‘smear’ of salted caramel sauce. The ice-cream was heavenly and with its distinct popcorn taste was fun to eat. I love desserts and this one did not disappoint.

 

John’s choice of dessert - a Granny Smith Apple Parfait, Sorbet of Richmount Farm Elderflower & Apple, Honeycomb was another winner. The parfait was smooth and refreshing and contrasted nicely with the freshness of the compressed apple. Honeycomb nuggets provided little bursts of sweetness.

 

Apple Parfait

We washed everything down with a half bottle of a 2009 Chateau Tour de Pas St. Émilion which was reasonably priced at €19.50. It was full of ripe berry flavours with a good length on the palate and was a good choice with our diverse menu choices.

 

A trio of petits fours including a raspberry marshmallow, chocolate truffle and mini-madeleine along with cups of filtered coffee brought a thoroughly enjoyable meal to a close. I think that at €55 per person, the Dinner Menu is outstanding value for the quality of food you get. Gary O’Hanlon is one of this country’s most talented chefs and he produces well thought-out interesting food that is absolutely delicious.

 

Service throughout the meal was very professional, but in no way stiff or overly formal. There are many establishments who could learn a lot from Beryl and her team in this regard as it was faultlessly delivered and perfectly pitched.

 

VM Restaurant

Viewmount House

Dublin Road

Longford Town

County Longford

 

Tel: 043-3341919

 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

Guiness Treacle Brown Bread