Restaurant Review: The Strawberry Tree at Brook Lodge, Macreddin Village, County Wicklow

Dining in The Strawberry Tree at Brook Lodge in Macreddin Village is a unique experience and one that I will remember for a long time. As Ireland’s only certified organic restaurant, the menu only includes organic or wild ingredients and their provenance is proudly displayed throughout the menu which is opportunistic in its use of ingredients, drawing on what is in season and locally available or can be foraged  nearby. This results in food that is unusual, playful and thought-provoking on many levels.

Due to the availability of ingredients, the menu changes regularly and is constantly evolving but this along with the some top-notch cooking under Head Chef Tim Daly is what makes the food so exciting to eat. I was really looking forward to dining there.

 

Irish Orchard kir Royale

The dining room is spacious and decorated in rich dark colours which are surprisingly soothing. A dark mirrored ceiling makes the room feel even larger but despite this, the overall atmosphere is relaxed and intimate. There are two menus – an à la carte evening menu and a 9-course tasting menu which I decided to go for.

 

A selection of Warm Breads was first to arrive and came swaddled in a linen napkin to preserve their heat. Brook Lodge is renowned for its brown soda bread and it isn’t hard to see why as it was wonderful. Bread rolls were flavoured with cheese and a wild garlic pesto and were also delicious, especially when liberally spread with soft, salty butter.

 

Ireland's Youngest Cheese

An Irish Orchard Kir Royale made from single reserve cider using Dabinette apples and homemade blackcurrant liqueur opened proceedings and was a perfect way to kick off the meal. The slightly effervescent but mildly flavoured cider was a nice alternative to the more commonly used sparkling white wine or Champagne and resulted in a drink that was very Irish.

 

Next up was the intriguingly entitled Ireland’s Youngest Cheese. Here soft curds which had been made only 90 minutes beforehand were served with an oat-flake tuile and dressed with a drizzle of rapeseed oil and nasturtium leaves. I was completely smitten by the simplicity of this dish and loved the contrast of the crisp tuile against the soft cheese which possessed a subtle sweet flavour.

 

Duck's Yolk

Similarly, the Kale Nero Laverbread with Crispy Duck’s Yolk was simple in concept but used ingredients in innovative ways. Laverbread is a traditional Welsh delicacy which is made using seaweed. It is often served as a thick purée and is considered an acquired taste. Here black kale was substituted for the seaweed and it was made to a firmer consistency than would be the norm. This contrasted  wonderfully with the crispy duck’s yolk with its runny centre .The egg yolk had been gently pre-cooked and was then lightly covered in breadcrumbs before being deep-fried. As you cut into the yolk, it oozed out creating a lovely rich sauce. A piquant hollandaise which served to cut through the richness of the overall dish finished everything off perfectly.

 

Wild Pigeon

I am a huge fan of wood pigeon so was delighted to see Seared Wild Wood Pigeon, Pearl Barley, Burnt Katy Apple Purée on the menu. This was a wonderful autumnal dish where the pigeon had been flawlessly cooked. The accompanying ‘ragout’ of pearl-barley and apple purée was deliciously rich and satisfying to eat. This was followed up by a creamy Smoked Potato Soup, Poitín, Bacon Foam. I particularly liked the inclusion of poitín which accentuated and highlighted the potato flavour but didn’t overpower the dish.

 

The meal then changed direction with the arrival of a Rhubarb Sorbet. However, this was more than a mere palate cleanser as the rhubarb was presented three ways – as a fiery compote flavoured with chilli; as a refreshing sorbet and finally, as a soothing drink. Our waitress advised that this was the order in which each should be consumed and we obediently followed her instructions. It was like taking my palate on an adventure where it was challenged and stimulated but where the flavours of rhubarb still managed to shine through. I loved it and felt ready to continue with the rest of my meal.

 

Beef

35 day-aged seared Beef Sirloin, Slow Cooked Shin, Celeriac Purée, Glazed Shallot, Full Bone Gravy was a mouth-watering dish which showcased the quality of the beef that had been used. The sirloin was melt-in-the-mouth tender but the true stars of the dish were the shin of beef croquette with its robustly flavoured soft meat and the outstanding bone gravy which was unlike any gravy that I have ever tasted before. A generous portion of extra gravy was served in a jug and I am a little embarrassed to admit that I finished off every drop!

 

An Orchard Fruit Soda was lovely after the rich and unctuous beef and came humorously presented in a small bottle with its own straw on a bed of real grass in a mini-apple crate. I loved the fun of this and enjoyed the Alice in Wonderland feel of the dish.

 

Orchard Fruit Soda

A stunning Blackcurrant Panna Cotta & Pickled Pears was the final dish of the Tasting Menu. The panna cotta was perfectly set and with its silky texture and intense blackcurrant flavour was heavenly to eat. Thankfully it had not been over-sweetened so the fruit flavours were not dulled in any way and worked wonderfully against the pickled pears and shortbread crumb that accompanied it. I couldn’t fault anything on the plate and can still vividly remember every spoonful.

 

After finishing my meal my waiter asked whether I would like to take a look at the walk-in Wild Foods Pantry which adjoins the dining room. I jumped at the chance and was highly impressed with the great selection of cheeses, charcuterie and preserved goods contained therein.

 

At €75 per person, the tasting menu isn’t cheap, but for the quality of the food and the journey you are taken on during your meal, I think that it is well worth every cent. A couple of glasses of house red washed everything down and added to my enjoyment of the meal.

 

The Strawberry Tree at the Brook Lodge & Wells Spa

Macreddin Village

County Wicklow

 

Telephone: 040236444

Email: info@brooklodge.com

 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie
 

Review: A Lunch to Remember in the Samsung Kitchen @ L'Ecrivain

I was recently invited to an exclusive Bloggers’ Lunch in the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain on Baggot Street in Dublin. I have eaten there a number of times but I was delighted to visit again to experience the newly unveiled Samsung Kitchen @ L’Ecrivain. This is a wonderful venue adjacent to the main restaurant which can be booked for private functions and where guests can see for themselves, their meal being cooked by Chef/Proprietor Derry Clarke in the wonderfully sleek and contemporary Samsung kitchen.

 

Bread Selection

Derry was recently selected as the first ever brand ambassador of Samsung’s home appliances range and it is a role that at 58 years old he has embraced with gusto, acknowledging that he was honoured to have been chosen especially as some people may have expected that a younger ‘trendier’ chef would have been selected. Together with his wife Sallyanne, Derry has over three decades’ experience working in the restaurant industry and it is through their joint efforts that L’Ecrivain, which they opened in 1989, was awarded a Michelin star in 2003 and has retained ever since.

 

The dining room is spacious and can comfortably sit 20 people at the long, magnificent table.  Sallyanne recommends that at least twelve people dine at any one time as the room is quite large and smaller parties might get lost. The kitchen is located at the far end of the room in full view of diners. As one of Ireland’s top fine-dining restaurants, Derry recognises that L’Ecrivain is quite formal but hopes that eating in the Samsung Kitchen @ L’Ecrivain is a completely different experience with a more relaxed atmosphere.

 

Beetroot

The intimate nature of the Samsung Kitchen @ L’Ecrivain means that not only do you have the opportunity to watch as the food is prepared but that you also have the chance to ask questions about the ingredients used and the techniques employed to create your meal. For anyone who loves food, this is an experience that is not to be missed and it is fair to say that we were all eagerly looking forward to our lunch.

 

I vividly remember the wonderful breads that were served during my previous visits to L’Ecrivain and again, at our lunch they didn’t disappoint. The White Bread Rolls, Brown Soda Bread and Foccacia were all delicious and we nibbled away happily as we sipped Prosecco and chatted to each other.

 

Organic Salmon

First up was an amuse bouche of Beetroot & Whipped Goat’s Cheese which came served with shards of crispy chicken skin, pecan nut crumbs and was garnished with micro-herbs. This was a beautifully presented dish where everything on the plate served to highlight the sweet and earthy flavour of the roasted beetroot and it was a wonderful precursor to the dishes that were to follow.

 

The next dish of Organic Salmon consisted of Clare Island organic salmon cooked in two different ways, each of which showcased different qualities of the quality fish that was used. The salmon cured in salt, sugar and citrus was outstanding and tasted delicious with the tiny cubes of potato salad and horseradish mayonnaise which accompanied it. Small rings of lightly pickled shallot added piquancy whilst nasturtium leaves imparted a subtle peppery flavour. The other piece of salmon was cooked mi-cuit in a water bath and with a certain amount of drama was smoked under a glass cloche in front of us. I loved the subtle smokiness of the salmon which was succulent to eat and melted in the mouth.

 

Roast Sirloin of Beef

Roast Sirloin of Beef was another seemingly simple but stunning dish. Here beautifully tender 32-day, dry-aged Angus beef was brined for 24 hours before being pan roasted in beef dripping. It was served with mushroom purée, sautéed ceps and caramelised onions. All too often tender cuts of beef such as fillet and sirloin can be lacking in flavour, but here the meat was treated lovingly and with a real understanding of how to intensify the flavour so that each mouthful was a pure joy to eat.

 

I loved the pre-dessert which was a modern re-working of a classic Tiramisu. Each flavour element was deconstructed so that chocolate sponge and chocolate shavings sat side by side with coffee mousse and mascarpone cream. This was an elegant and surprisingly light plate of food but it was also self-indulgent and a little bit naughty like all good desserts should be.

 

Tiramisu

A Lemon Tart was our final dish of the day and was a great end to a thoroughly enjoyable meal. I am a big fan of lemon desserts but I am notoriously difficult to please when it comes to lemon tarts! Without a doubt, this was one of the best that I have ever tasted; I loved the silky texture of the perfectly set lemon custard contrasted against the crisp texture of the thin pastry base. Served with toasted meringues, blackberry sorbet, blackberry gel and fresh blackberries, this was a dish where everything was perfectly balanced.

 

We finished our meal with coffees and a lovely selection of Petits Fours which included a macaron, a raspberry jelly and a tiny choux bun filled with pistachio crème patissière.

 

Lemon Tart

This was a dining experience with a difference and one that I will remember for a long time. It was fascinating watching Derry ably assisted by Tom Doyle, L’Ecrivain’s Head Chef, prepare our meal in the impressive Samsung kitchen. Service was impeccable as one would expect in a restaurant of this calibre and added to our enjoyment of the meal.

 

This is a venue and a concept that would be ideal for corporate and private functions or for informal family get-togethers and I would highly recommend it.

 

Dinner is priced at €85 per person and lunch at €55 per person. Further information about the Samsung Kitchen @L’Ecrivain is available at www.lecrivain.com

 

L’Ecrivain

109a Baggot Street Lower

Dublin 2

 

Telephone: 01-6611919

Derry Clarke

 

Restaurant Review: Wuff, Benburb Street, Dublin 7

I really enjoy eating out and dining in restaurants that I haven’t been to before. Although I predominantly write dinner reviews, I also love documenting my brunch experiences and I am always on the lookout for new places to try. Luckily, brunch seems to be hugely popular these days so there are plenty to choose from. Whilst brunch has taken Dublin by storm there are fewer spots offering it outside the capital and, as I live down the country, I am at a slight disadvantage. As a result, when I get the chance to indulge my brunch lust I jump at it!

 

Wufftini

I recently spent a weekend in Dublin and, on the recommendation of a friend who knows the restaurant well, decided to pop into Wuff located on Benburb Street, not far from Smithfield Market in the heart of the city, to try the brunch offered there.

 

The first thing that strikes you as you walk through its doors is that Wuff is popular. When we arrived shortly after it opened for the day most of the tables were taken and we were fortunate to get the last remaining one. The restaurant feels effortlessly cool and with its bare stone walls, barred windows and sparse wooden tables you almost feel that you are dining in the heart of Queens or Greenwich Village.

 

As we sat there and took in our surroundings we noticed that a queue was forming outside, full of eager diners waiting for tables. Despite the demand for tables we never felt that we were being rushed during our meal, although the service was definitely brisk and efficient. Wuff doesn’t take bookings for brunch so it is well worth getting there early if you want to eat without queuing first.

 

Small Irish

The menu contains all the brunch stalwarts that you would expect to see and also offers a small selection of cocktails… which we felt compelled to sample! My Wufftini was light and full of the fresh early morning flavour of pink grapefruit juice and also included some Grenadine. It was topped up with Cipriano Prosecco and was suitably easy-to-drink for that time of the day. Eithne’s Bellini – made with peach purée and also topped up with Prosecco was another refreshing drink that went down easily.

 

Although tempted by both the Pulled Pork Sandwich (€11.50)which came served in a Waterford Blaa and the Steak Sandwich with Sundried Tomatoes, Onion Marmalade and Cheese (€12.95), I decided to go for a Small Irish (€7.00) which included a large free-range pork and leek sausage, bacon, a fried egg and came served with toasted sourdough bread. Whilst the egg was faultlessly cooked; yielding up its runny interior when pierced with a knife and the bacon was perfectly acceptable, the hero of this dish was definitely the wonderfully flavoursome pork and leek sausage. I think that I would return to Wuff again for this alone – I loved it.

 

Eggs Benedict

Eithne’s Eggs Benedict was another well-executed dish although purists would quibble at the accuracy of its description as the inclusion of spinach would more normally classify it as Eggs Florentine. This aside, the poached eggs were perfectly cooked and nestled invitingly on some wilted spinach and toasted brioche. An excellent hollandaise sauce contained the right amount of acidity to cut through the richness of the overall dish and was absolutely delicious. At €8.95 (or €9.95 with bacon which was the way Eithne had it) this was a competitively priced especially when compared to what some other restaurants are charging for eggs benedict in Dublin.
 

To finish we shared a Warm Sweet Waffle (€6.95) which came with a generous sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts, fresh strawberries, a couple of scoops of vanilla ice-cream and loads of chocolate sauce. This was sweet and sticky and tasted absolutely heavenly. This was the perfect end to an enjoyable meal.

Warm Sweet Waffle

On one hand the brunch menu in Wuff is a little predictable, but the service is good, the surroundings are comfortable and most importantly the food, which is reasonably priced tastes delicious. I would have no hesitation in recommending Wuff’s brunch and look forward to re-visiting and eating some of the other dishes on the menu.

 

Our bill for two came to €47 including cocktails, coffees and optional gratuity.
 

Wuff

23 Benburb Street

Dublin 7

 

Telephone: 01-5320347

Website: www.wuff.ie

 

Smoked Haddock Chowder

Anyone who reads my blog regularly or has browsed through the recipes here will know that I am a big fan of soups. There’s nothing more nourishing and comforting to eat on a cold and wintry day than a big bowl of steaming hot soup. Whilst there are many wonderful chilled soup recipes out there such as Vichyssoise and Borscht, I love soups that warm your very soul and make you feel good from the inside out!

 

I find it hard to understand why people spend so much money buying packet or tinned soups or even  fresh soups from the chilled section in the supermarket when it is so easy to make your own at home. In most cases, they can be made in little time using ingredients that are relatively inexpensive.

 

My gang love the Cream of Vegetable Soup that I make using potatoes, carrots, onions, and leeks, but they also like my version of Minestrone Soup into which I add some pasta. Soups like the latter are a meal in their own right and require nothing more than some nice crusty bread as an accompaniment.

 

Chowders are creamy, thickened soups usually containing chunks of potato and can include other vegetables. Fish or shellfish are often used in chowders and here I have included smoked haddock which gives the soup a lovely smokiness which marries well with the creaminess of the soup itself. Along with the sweetcorn, the chunks of potato and the samphire this is a substantial dish which is incredibly tasty.

 

This chowder is inspired by the wonderful chowder that I recently had in The Vintage Kitchen which I was so impressed with. I am not claiming that this version is as magnificent as the one that I ate there but it is still incredibly delicious and relatively simple to make. The Vintage Kitchen’s chowder included samphire which I thought was an inspired addition so I have used it here too. Samphire can be a little hard to source, so if you can’t get your hands on some just leave it out – the chowder will still taste amazing!
 

Ingredients:

To poach the fish:
300g smoked haddock (preferably undyed)

350ml vegetable stock

1 bay leaf

Chowder:

50g butter

1 large white onion, finely chopped

200g potato, peeled and chopped into 2cm chunks

A large sprig of thyme

1tsp of Dijon mustard

250ml double cream

125g frozen sweetcorn

125g samphire, blanched and refreshed in cold water

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To finish:

Chives, finely chopped
 

Method:

To poach the fish:

1. Place the fish in a medium-sized but deepish frying pan, add the bay leaf and cover with the vegetable stock. Bring up to simmering point over a medium heat and allow to bubble away for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to stand for 5 minutes.

2. Carefully remove the fish with a slotted spoon but reserve the poaching liquid. Flake the fish into large chunks, removing and discarding any bones that you come across. Set aside.

Chowder:

3. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over a moderate heat and add the onions. Fry for 2 minute and then add the potatoes and thyme. Reduce the heat and place the lid on the saucepan. Allow the vegetables to sweat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until they have begun to soften.

4. Add the reserved poaching liquid and the Dijon mustard and allow to simmer uncovered, over a gentle heat for 10 minutes until the potatoes have softened but are not disintegrating.

5. Add the cream and stir through. Allow to simmer for a further 3 minutes and then add in the fish and frozen sweetcorn. Remove and discard the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme. Simmer for 3 minutes and then add the blanched samphire. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

6. Serve sprinkled with chopped chives.

Serves 6.