Restaurant Review: Harry's Shack, Portstewart, County Derry

I’m often asked how I decide which restaurants to review. The truth is that there is no real science behind it other than an honest desire to eat in the particular places that I choose. I hear about restaurants from a variety of sources – from newspapers and magazines, online and by word-of-mouth. I fervently believe that great food can be found in many restaurants all around the country and not just in our larger cities so I try to ensure that my reviews reflect this and that all four corners of the country are covered. I compile endless ‘must-visit’ lists and I am always planning my next meal out.

The Strand at Portstewart

Like many people do before they travel these days, I decided to carry out some online research on the best places to eat whilst in Northern Ireland during my recent visit there. It quickly emerged that one of the most popular spots is Harry’s Shack to be found at the edge of the strand in Portstewart on the dramatic and wind-swept North Atlantic coast. Reading descriptions of its location conjured up somewhat romantic images for me, of a wild and rugged shoreline at the mercy of the elements. I found the idea of dining in a shack intriguing so I immediately booked a table for lunch using the restaurant’s electronic booking system.
 

Spiced Whitebait

Travelling through beautiful countryside, I had a very enjoyable drive up from Derry where I had spent the night. On my arrival in Portstewart, I quickly found the restaurant in time for my lunch booking and was really looking forward to my meal having worked up quite an appetite on my journey there.

Nestled amongst the sand-dunes, Harry’s occupies a shed-like structure which is owned by the National Trust. With breath-taking views of an angry looking ocean, the dining room is unlike any that I have ever been in before. Long wooden tables and benches are modestly dressed with simple cutlery, glass tumblers and orange-coloured paper napkins. An open kitchen located at the far end of the restaurant adds to the laid-back and unrestricted feel in the restaurant.

Chicken Salad, Buttermilk Dressing

I had arranged to meet a fellow food writer for lunch and once comfortably seated we examined the menu which was brief but had some tempting dishes on it. Given the restaurant's location we weren’t surprised to see a number of fish and seafood dishes listed. A slight hiccup with our order resulted in our starters arriving almost half an hour after we had ordered them and quite a while after other diners who had been seated after us had been fed. Although initially peeved, all minor irritations were quickly swept away on eating the food.

Most restaurants have a signature dish; something that keeps regulars happy and entices new patrons through the door. The Spiced Whitebait with Marie Rose Sauce & Garden Leaves (£5.50) in Harry’s has a devoted following so, in addition to our individual starter choices, we decided to order one to share between us. I’ve always loved whitebait, especially when simply prepared as these were; - just gently dusted with flour before being deep-fried until they are crispy. The accompanying Marie-Rose sauce was excellent, with a restrained sweetness and a decent spicy-hit that complemented the whitebait perfectly. Full of clean and distinct flavours with an addictive crispy texture we gobbled every last one of them down.

St. Tola Panna Cotta

Both our individual starters were beautifully presented. Jim’s choice – a Chicken Salad with Buttermilk Dressing and Crispy Hen’s Egg (£5.50) included a generous amount of tender chicken, a nice selection of baby leaves and an impeccably cooked soft-boiled egg which had been bread-crumbed and then deep-fried. The buttermilk dressing was absolutely stunning and with its slightly lactic tang managed to bring out the underlying sweetness of the chicken.


My St. Tola Goat’s Cheese Panna Cotta, Pickled Garden Carrots and Granola (£6.50) had a light and almost summery feel. I was delighted to see a savoury panna cotta featured and with the distinctive flavour of St. Tola goat’s cheese coming through nicely, I thought that it was a huge success. The panna cotta had a lovely freshness and was velvety smooth without being over-set. Along with a sprinkling of toasted granola, paper-thin slices of lightly pickled carrots provided textural contrast against the soft and creamy panna cotta whilst their slight acidity balanced the dish perfectly.

Fish & Chips

Jim’s Fish & Chips with Mushy Peas and Tartare Sauce (£11.00) consisted of a large piece of haddock coated in a light and crunchy batter which had been made using buttermilk. The accompanying mushy peas and tartare sauce were both excellent. Mushy peas can be divisive but I’m a huge fan and these, with their slightly mealy texture and the natural sweetness of the peas just coming through, were delicious. Although cutlery had been provided I feel that there is something incongruous about using a knife and fork to eat food like this , so like excited children we got stuck-in and used our hands.

Burgers are ubiquitous; to be found everywhere but this didn’t stop me from ordering the 6oz ‘Beach’ Burger & Chips, Brioche Bap, Dressed Garden leaves, FFO, Bacon Jam, and Vintage Cheddar Cheese (£11.00). I made the right decision because this was one of the best beef burgers I have ever eaten. Although the burger was cooked to the well-done stage, the well-seasoned meat was still wonderfully succulent. I loved the cheese that had been used and thought the battered onion rings were an inspired addition. The bacon jam was unbelievably delicious, managing to be smoky, sweet and sour all at the one time.  I'm not kidding - this stuff should be patented. I felt sorry for poor Jim because my audible groans of pleasure were drawing attention from fellow diners… but I was past caring!

Burger & Chips

It was difficult to imagine that anything could top the burger bliss of the previous course but little did we realise what was to come. Although a number of desserts are offered, we decided to share a Sticky Toffee Pudding (£5.00) between us. Here, the surprisingly light sponge had been drenched in the most soothingly sweet and buttery hot caramel/toffee sauce. Topped with a large scoop of well-flavoured vanilla ice-cream and some caramelised walnuts we almost came to blows over who would lick the bowl clean. I dread to think how many calories were contained in that pudding but I was quite happy to throw all inhibitions aside and like a wanton woman I totally gave myself up to the pleasures of that pudding.



Sticky Toffee Pudding

I loved Harry’s Shack. I loved the location. I loved the raw wildness outside contrasted with the relaxed ambiance in the restaurant… but most of all... I loved the food. There was something so compelling about the whole experience. Restaurateur Donal Doherty and Head Chef Derek Creagh have created  something really special in Harry’s Shack and I would recommend it without hesitation to anyone. Despite the blip at the beginning of our meal, service throughout was delivered in a pleasant and friendly manner and I genuinely enjoyed myself.

Harry’s Shack

116 Strand Road

Portstewart BT55 7PG

United Kingdom

Telephone: 0044 28 7083 1783

Twitter: www.twitter.com/harrys_shack

 

This article first appeared in TheTaste.ie

The Shack

Restaurant Review: Browns Restaurant & Champagne Lounge, Bond's Hill, Derry

2016 promises to be an exciting year for the food, hospitality and tourism sectors in Northern Ireland as it has been designated as Northern Ireland’s Year of Food & Drink. Each month will have a specific theme and with the support of Tourism NI a wide range of events is scheduled to take place during the year. With a thriving artisan food industry, some world-class chefs and so many wonderful places to eat in, this timely initiative will help to cement Northern Ireland’s reputation as one of Europe’s top food destinations.

I felt that a visit to the North was long overdue so I arranged a short break away and booked a table for dinner in Browns Restaurant & Champagne Lounge in Derry. The restaurant is conveniently located close to the centre of the city at the lower end of Bond’s Hill overlooking Lough Foyle. As runner-up in the prestigious Restaurant Association of Ireland’s (RAI) Foodie Towns Awards for 2015, Derry has an impressive foodie pedigree so I was really looking forward to visiting the historic Walled City and to my meal in Browns.

 

Browns on Bond’s Hill is one of a group of restaurants which includes Browns in Town located on Strand Road, also in Derry - providing a more casual dining experience - and Browns on the Green in Letterkenny, County Donegal. Under Head Chef Ian Orr the Bond’s Hill restaurant has a fine dining focus but the food is still accessible and unpretentious. Ian who trained under Robbie Millar in Shanks - Northern Ireland’s formative Michelin starred restaurant has also worked in London’s famous River Café and at Rathmullan House Hotel in Donegal. Passionate about Irish food, his commitment to using fresh, seasonal produce and supporting local suppliers was evident throughout my meal in Browns.

 

Bread

As I arrived, I was struck by the friendly, welcoming atmosphere in Browns which was busy on the Wednesday evening that I visited. A central bar and dining room forms the hub of the restaurant which has a number of other adjoining dining areas leading off it. Decorated in dark, warm colours, the overall feeling is one of cosy relaxation which I found particularly appealing and it occurred to me more than once that this would be the perfect place for a romantic dinner.

 

There are a number of menus offered in Browns; a set dinner menu (with two courses for £17.95 or three courses for £21.95) and an à la carte menu. Also available is a six course tasting menu which, after some initial indecision, was the one that I eventually plumped for. Even allowing for a less-than-favourable euro/sterling exchange rate, I think that at £40 per person (or £65 with optional wine pairings) the tasting menu represents phenomenal value-for-money and gives the diner the chance to sample a variety of dishes.

 

Canapés

Browns has an impressive wine list and also offers a small selection of classic cocktails which were too tempting to resist. My Dark & Stormy made with dark rum, ginger beer and dash of angostura bitters was the perfect aperitif and I enjoyed sipping on it as I ate the excellent breads that were served as the precursor to my meal. Both the Foccacia and the Stout Soda Bread were presented as mini-loaves with dipping oil and butter on the side. They were delicious with a light, slightly chewy crumb.

 

A pre-starter consisting of Canapés and Soup was next to arrive. I loved the crisp texture of both the basil and parmesan crackers which were served delicately balanced on the edge of a bowl of tiny pebbles. Normally I’m not a fan of gimmicky presentation but this arrangement was forgivable as it accentuated the almost geological, organic look of the crackers which came topped with pearlescent dots of creamy mayonnaise. The small cup of Butternut Squash Velouté with its velvety texture and sweet, earthy notes was the perfect counterfoil to the crispness of the crackers. With a swirl of pesto and a sprinkling of puffed rice, I found it amazing how such a dainty dish could seem so full-flavoured.

 

Chicken Wing, Goat's Curd, Artichoke

Similarly, the Chicken Wing, Goat’s Curd & Artichoke Salad was another light offering but one that tantalised the taste buds without assaulting the palate with rich, heavy flavours too early on in the meal. Too often salads can be a dumping ground for random ingredients but this one comprising a ‘wafer’ of crispy chicken-skin, lightly dressed leaves and deep-fried goat’s curd bon-bon was perfectly balanced and a delight to eat.

 

Langoustine Ravioli with Onion & Squash was next up and looked wonderfully appetising. The silky pasta had been expertly made and with its filling of sweet langoustines it was a pleasure to eat. A ‘leaf’ of charred onion provided refuge for some tiny cubes of butternut squash which also appeared on the plate in the form of an exquisitely smooth purée. The caramelised edges of the onion added a very subtle bitterness which prevented this dish from tasting too sweet and also served to accentuate the meatiness of the langoustines.

 

Langoustine Ravioli

The menu description of the next dish was enough to get my gastric juices flowing – Cod, Piccalilli, Walnut & Curry and it didn’t disappoint. I loved the cod croquette which was generously packed full of fish and was comforting to eat. Crushed toasted walnuts added crunch whilst the excellent piccalilli leant the dish a spicy piquancy. Presented on a striking red plate this was food that was begging to be devoured.

 

The simplicity of the next two dishes was confirmation, if any was needed, that there is a highly accomplished and assured chef at work in Browns. The Duck, Cabbage & Celeriac and the Beef – Sirloin, Shin, Potato & Onion both relied on some skilful yet restrained cooking to showcase the wonderful quality of the ingredients that were used. Both plates of food were outstanding and provided high points in what was a memorable meal.

 

Duck

An Apricot Sorbet was welcome relief after the richness of the previous two dishes.  Presented in dinky little chocolate waffle cones they added a touch of frivolity to the meal. Thankfully, the sorbet wasn’t too sweet and it succeeded in doing what it set out to do… refresh the palate.

 

The meal finished on a high with a Hot Chocolate Fondant, Milk Sorbet & Chocolate Tuille. Fondants are sometimes known as chocolate lava cakes and when made as well as this one was, it is not hard to see why. Once I broke through its spongy exterior the fondant released a flowing river of hot chocolate. I particularly liked the accompanying milk sorbet which was delightfully refreshing and finished off the dish perfectly. Feeling in a rather self-indulgent mood I decided to order a glass of Maison Sichel Sauternes (£7.00) to enjoy with my dessert which with its pale golden colour and nose of summer fruits stood up well to the chocolate in the dessert.

 

Apricot Sorbet

The tasting menu in Browns is coherent and well thought out. Each course makes sense in the context of the menu as a whole and this results in an unforgettable dining experience. I was really impressed by Ian Orr’s cooking and loved his delicate but confident touch. Service throughout was friendly and attentive. The staff are well-informed about the menu and you get a real sense that they are genuinely enthusiastic about the food on offer.

 

Browns Restaurant & Champagne Lounge

1 Bond’s Hill

Londonderry,

BT47 6DW

 

Telephone: 00442871345180

Website: www.brownsrestaurant.com

 

Northern Ireland Tourist Board: www.tourismni.com

This article first appeared in TheTaste.ie
 

Chocolate Fondant

Review: Aniar Cookery School, Dominick Street, Galway

It’s no secret that I am a huge fan of the food in Aniar, the first and one of only two Galway restaurants to hold a Michelin star. I can still remember the first time that I dined there and I recall with sparkling clarity the tastes and textures of each dish that I ate that night. Aside from being delicious, what impressed me so much about the food was its sense of identity and its connection to the land and countryside that it came from. The cooking in Aniar unashamedly celebrates all that is great about Irish food and this it does in a modern and exciting way which I found intoxicating. I especially love the inclusive philosophy of the restaurant and the fact that whilst the food ticks all the fine-dining boxes it does so without being elitist or pretentious.

 

JP McMahon

Restaurateur and self-taught chef JP McMahon runs Aniar alongside his wife Drigín Gaffey. In addition to Aniar they also own two other successful restaurants in Galway - Cava and Eat Gastropub. One senses that JP is a man who doesn't like to stand still because, in addition to the pressures of running three busy restaurants, he was also responsible for bringing Food on the Edge - an international food symposium - to Galway in October 2015. Many of the world’s top chefs were in attendance and key issues regarding the future of food and the restaurant industry were discussed over the two days of the conference. Quite astonishingly, JP still manages to find time to work on his PhD in Art History and fit in media and journalism commitments. Not content with all that, he also runs a boutique cookery school in Aniar, personally delivering most of the courses himself.

 

Beef, Onion, Mushroom, Beer

The cookery school offers a range of courses including Breadmaking, Gastropub Classics, Tapas and Planning a Dinner Party amongst many others. Classes are held in the kitchen at Aniar and as result most of them take place on Sundays or Monday evenings when the restaurant is closed. The courses are understandably popular and get booked up quickly. However, prospective students can sign up through the restaurant’s website to receive email notifications when new courses come on stream.

 

I was keen to do the Understanding Food course which takes place each Monday evening over a 6 week period. After putting my name on the waiting list, I was delighted to finally start the course a couple of months ago. Classes are small and limited to six students so you really have the chance to improve your cookery skills and learn loads from JP.

 

Pork, Apricot

Being familiar with restaurant kitchens, I know that many of them can be small and cramped and whilst the kitchen in Aniar is compact there was still plenty of space for us all to get stuck in and do a lot of hands-on cooking. All ingredients and equipment are provided and the atmosphere is laid-back but focused at the same time as there is a lot to get through.

 

Each week of the course has its own theme which means that you can really explore each topic in detail trying out a number of recipes and different cooking techniques. Subjects covered include Bread, Beef, Pork, Fish and Poultry with the final week covering Vegetables and Desserts. On our first night we were each given a lovely Aniar apron which we wore with pride for the duration of the course. Detailed notes containing all the evening’s recipes are given to all participants at the beginning of every class. After the 6 weeks we each received a comprehensive booklet containing all the notes and recipes bound together.

 

Chicken Skin, Oyster Emulsion

Each weekly class begins in a relaxed manner just before 7pm with a cup of tea/coffee in the dining room during which time JP informally outlines the evening’s activities. Moving into the kitchen proceedings kick off with a demonstration where ingredients including all meat and vegetables are prepped. JP guided us through all aspects of the cooking and food preparation and with his calm and reassuring manner even the most inexperienced of us felt imbued with a confidence.

 

Lamb, Celeriac

The first of the classes dealt with Breadmaking and it is fair to say that we all threw ourselves into it with great enthusiasm, kneading and punching our bread dough as if we were boxers trying to win a title fight. During the course of the night we made a vast array of yeasted breads including a standard white loaf, foccacia, bread sticks as well as sourdough and soda bread. We also found the time to make a soft cheese and homemade butter which we flavoured with dillisk, a seaweed which is commonplace off the Irish coast.

 

Pork week was  a particular favourite of mine and I loved all the food that we cooked especially the dish using the pig’s head. On that evening, I was tasked with picking the meat from the head out of which we later made little breadcrumbed croquettes which we deep-fried until they were a lovely golden colour with a crispy texture. The croquettes were absolutely delicious and tasted wonderful with the accompanying beetroot purée and thyme gel that we had also made. I also loved the Pork Belly that we cooked and thought that the Pork Loin, Serrano Ham & Apricot dish with its punchy Spanish flavours was heavenly.

 

Mackerel, Trout Caviar

I really enjoyed all the subjects we covered but probably gained most from the Fish week as, like a lot of people, it is something that I am reticent to cook at home fearing that I will overcook it to the point that it is inedible. JP showed us how fish is really the ultimate in fast food being easy to prepare and quick to cook. Since completing the course in Aniar, I find that I am cooking fish much more regularly and that I am really enjoying experimenting with using it in different ways.  During the Fish week we also cooked scallops, shellfish and prepared a dish using a live lobster.

 

There were so many stand-out dishes over the six weeks that it is hard to single out one as my favourite. If pushed I think that I would have to choose the Egg Yolk and Turnip dish that we made in the final week. Not only was it beautiful to look at it but it really demonstrated how the simplest of ingredients could be elevated to a fine-dining standard. I also loved the Scallop & Artichoke dish that we made during Fish week and I thought that the Beetroot Parfait dessert was one of the most unusual but delicious things that I have ever eaten.

 

Cod, Chorizo, Barley

Each class ended in a convivial manner at around 10pm when we sat down together with a glass of wine and sampled the food that we had cooked. Many of the dishes that we made during the classes were variations of those that are served in Aniar, Cava and Eat Gastropub. Others we adapted as we cooked them to incorporate and use the ingredients that were available to us on each particular evening. At this point I should mention that participants are urged to bring a container in order to carry home samples of the food that they cook and this I would definitely advise doing as there are loads of leftovers and everything is so delicious.

 

I gained so much from the Understanding Food course. As a fairly competent home cook I particularly enjoyed the creative aspects of the course and was fascinated at seeing a top chef at work. I was genuinely sad when the course came to an end because I had enjoyed every single minute of it.

 

Further information on all the cookery courses run in Aniar is available from:

 

Aniar

51 Lower Dominick Street

Galway

 

Telephone: 091-535947

Website: www.aniarrestaurant.ie

 

This article first appeared in TheTaste.ie

 

Carrot Cake