Restaurant Review: Knox, O'Connell Street, Sligo

Fashions come and go and this is as true in the restaurant world as it is on the catwalk. Over the past few years we have witnessed the ‘burger revolution’, the growth in popularity of cocktails and a move towards less formal dining. Moreover, they say that travel broadens the mind but it has also broadened our palates and as foreign travel becomes more commonplace we want to visit restaurants at home that remind us of the food that we have eaten on our trips abroad. In particular, tapas menus, based around small shared dishes, have really caught on and their popularity looks set to continue.

 

Knox

Tapas originated in bars in Andalucia in the south of Spain where sherry drinkers would be given a piece of bread to place over their glasses in order to keep the flies out. In fact, the word tapas comes from the Spanish verb ‘tapar’ meaning to cover. Over time, cured meats, seafood and roasted vegetables were also placed on top of the bread to tempt patrons as bars competed for customers. As the popularity of tapas grew throughout Spain, different areas added their own regional influences and a new food genre was born. We now think of tapas as consisting of a wide range of small dishes or snacks encompassing a variety of tastes and flavours in one meal.
 



Patatas Bravas

During the day, Knox, a small, independent-run restaurant in Sligo Town, operates a breakfast and lunch menu but in the evenings (Thursday to Saturday; 6-10pm) it also serves its Knox@Night tapas menu. Located right in the heart of Sligo on O’Connell Street, Knox has quickly built up a loyal customer base since first opening in May 2015. It seems that the town has developed a taste for tapas and booking is advisable as many ‘walk-ins’ were turned away from this popular spot during my recent visit, as there were no  available tables.

 

Our first impressions of the restaurant were good and both Paula - my dining companion for the evening – and I agreed that with its dark decor, wooden tables and ambient lighting, Knox has successfully replicated the feel of authentic Spanish tapas bars. An outside dining-area provides extra space and would be an ideal place, weather conditions permitting, to dine al fresco.

 

Squid

The menu contains some interesting dishes and is divided into sections covering ‘nibbles while you wait’, sharing boards and dishes ‘from the ground’, ’from the sea’ and ‘from the field’. These are keenly priced ranging from €3 for nibbles to €14 for the most expensive dishes which include lamb, hake and sirloin steak. Unsure about which dishes to order we decided to prioritise our wine choice plumping for a gutsy Spanish Santa Maria Tempranillo Rioja, (€7 per glass/ €27 per bottle) from the concise but carefully chosen wine-list.  As we sipped on glasses of this full-flavoured wine we tucked into a platter of Artisan Breads & Dips (€4) which included a white bread, one flavoured with tomatoes and a wonderful version made with ham.

 

Our waiter advised us to order a couple of dishes each to start but reassured us that we could order more at any time during our meal. He also informed us that the food would not arrive all at once but that each dish would be served as it was cooked. First to arrive was that old tapas stalwart Patatas Bravas (€5) which contained a generous amount of well-seasoned baby potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce along with a garlic aioli. Too often this classic tapas dish can be a bit oily and the potatoes can lack texture but this version was very good and we wolfed down the lot.

 

Pickled Watermelon

The potatoes were quickly followed by Squid, Lemon, Aioli (€8) which was truly excellent. I am always wary of ordering squid as it is so easy to overcook, becoming rubbery in the process and reminiscent of chewing on large elastic bands. This dish was fantastic and quite possibly one of the best squid dishes that I have ever eaten. I loved the piquant, spicy coating and the soft, yielding texture of the perfectly cooked squid.

 

Our next dish of Pickled Watermelon, Mint, Poppyseed (€6) provided cooling relief after the spiciness of the patatas bravas and squid as did the Cos, Chicken Skin, Blue Cheese Dressing (€5) which contained nice chunks of creamy blue cheese with crisp leaves of lettuce. A crumb of crispy chicken skin added textural contrast.
 



Cos, Chicken Skin, Blue Cheese Dressing

Pan-Fried Scallops, Ham Hock Terrine, Crispy Chicken Skin, Apple Gel (€13) was something a little different from the scallop dishes available in so many restaurants these days. Here three plump scallops were served on a discs of ham hock terrine and topped with a crispy chicken skin crumb. I loved the flavour combinations and the way the saltiness of the crumb counterbalanced the sweetness of both the scallops and ham. A slick of tangy, slightly acidic apple gel completed the dish.

 

With ‘you only live once attitudes’ we decided to order another couple of dishes. Slow Roast Pork Belly, Black Pudding, Apple, Carrot & Anise (€11) was a huge hit with both of us. Well-rendered and meltingly soft pork belly still managed to have a crispy skin and was deeply satisfying to eat, but it was the accompanying deep-fried black pudding bon-bons that had made us groan with delight. With their crunchy bread-crumb coating and soft but full-flavoured meaty centres, they were heavenly.

 

Scallops

The Seared Duck Breast, Vanilla & Rhubarb Purée, House Granola, Kale (€13) was another meaty offering which we devoured despite feeling quite full. The portions in Knox are generous and in many ways our waiter’s advice was spot on; four and five dishes between two people would probably suffice. We ordered far more but this was purely in the interests of research (ahem), as I was keen to sample a number of the dishes.

 

We finished with something sweet and as the evening was warm and dry asked whether we could conclude our meal at one of the outside tables. Our request was granted without any bother and we spent an enjoyable hour chatting together outside as we watched passers-by and ate our desserts. My Churros, Chocolate Sauce, Vanilla Bean Ice-Cream, Crushed Praline (€7) was, like the rest of our meal, well made and with my sweet tooth, I thought it was fabulous. Paula’s Salted Caramel Liquor Affogato (€8) was also excellent and a sophisticated way to finish the meal.

 

Duck

I loved Knox. The menu has been well thought out and contains dishes that are full of bold flavours that immediately conjure up memories of my Spanish holidays. I also loved the relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant and the friendly service delivered by staff who really seem to enjoy working there. The rise of tapas-style dining goes hand-in-hand with the trend towards social eating. I believe that sharing food connects people and brings us together and that tapas encourage conversation because diners are less focused on eating an entire meal. Modern life can be hectic but restaurants like Knox which provide top-notch food and encourage conviviality should be celebrated.

 

Knox

32 O’Connell Street

Sligo

 

Telephone: 0719141575

Website: wwwknoxsligo.ie 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

Pork Belly

 

Recipe: Pineapple & Passion Fruit Pavlova

Fresh pineapples and passion fruit are easy to get your hands on at this time of year and are relatively inexpensive to buy. I normally prefer to use Irish fruits and vegetables in my cooking and baking but I find it hard to resist the seductive flavours of these tropical fruits. Our summers may be largely non-existent but this delicious dessert always makes me think of sun-soaked beaches and hot climates. The recipe may seem a little tricky at first but it is much simpler to make than it looks. If you like you can omit the passion fruit curd and fill your pavlova with just the pineapple.

INGREDIENTS:

Pineapple Flowers:

1 whole fresh pineapple

Pavlova:

6 large egg whites

375g caster sugar

1 level tblsp cornflower

1 tsp white wine vinegar

Passion Fruit Curd:

6-7 passion fruit to make 125ml passion fruit pulp, seeds sieved out

½ lemon, juice only

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

75g caster sugar

65g butter, cubed

To finish:

250ml single cream, gently whipped

Fresh pineapple chunks (off-cuts from making the flowers above)

Passion Fruit Curd (see above)

Pineapple Flowers (see above)

Pulp of two fresh passion fruits

METHOD:

Pineapple Flowers:

1. Preheat the oven to 100C/Fan Oven 80C/Gas Mark ¼.
2. Cut the top off the pineapple and, with the pineapple in an upright position, carefully remove the skin using a sharp knife.
3. Place the pineapple on its side. You will notice that the pineapple ‘eyes’ run diagonally around the fruit. Using a sharp paring knife make v-shaped cuts along these rows to remove the eyes.
4. Once the pineapple has been peeled, start slicing it to create this slices about 2mm-3mm in thickness. Place the pineapple slices onto some kitchen roll to absorb excess moisture and then place on to baking trays lined with silicon mats or parchment paper. Make sure that the pineapple slices do not overlap.
5. Place in the oven for 60-80 minutes, flipping the pineapple slices halfway through so that they dry evenly. The pineapple slices will shrivel slightly during the drying process but will feel papery when sufficiently dried.
6. Remove the trays from the oven and using a palette knife carefully lift each pineapple slice off. They will remain malleable while they are still warm and you will be able to shape them into flowers using a muffin tin. Allow to cool and dry completely. Store in an air-tight container until required.

NOTE: Keep any fresh pineapple offcuts for filling the pavlova.

Pavlova:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4. Draw a 20cm circles onto each of three separate sheets of baking parchment  and use to line three baking trays making sure that the circles are on the underside (you’ll still be able to see them through the paper). Set aside.
2. Place the egg whites into a large mixing bowl and using a hand-held electric mixer whisk them to the soft peak stage. Gradually add in the caster sugar, whisking well after each addition to create a glossy meringue which holds its shape.
3. Sift over the cornflour and add the vinegar, mixing briefly so that they are just incorporated.
4. Spoon the mixture, dividing it equally, onto the three prepared baking trays using the circles that you have drawn as a guide. Smooth the surface of two of the meringue discs but keep aside a few tablespoons of the meringue mixture for the final disc. Pile this in little blobs over the top of the final disc, swirling each blob gently with a fork or cocktail stick. This will be the top layer of your pavlova.
5. Place the baking trays into the preheated oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 120C/Fan Oven 100C/Gas Mark ½. Bake for 1 hour exactly and then turn off the oven. Allow to cool completely in the oven before removing.

Passion Fruit Curd:

1. Whisk together the passion fruit pulp, eggs, yolk and caster sugar in a bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon for approximately 10 minutes until thickened. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.
2. Pour into a sterilised jar and store in the fridge for up to three weeks.

 

To Finish:

1. Carefully peel the parchment paper off the meringue discs. Place one of the plain discs on your serving plate/cake stand and spoon over half the cream. Scatter over half the pineapple chunks and a few teaspoons of the passion fruit curd. Lastly, drizzle over half the passion fruit pulp. Top with the other plain pavlova disc and repeat. Finally top with the remaining pavlova disc and decorate with the pineapple flowers.

 

Serves  8-10 people.

 

Recipe: Fresh Pea & Mint Falafel

I’m a huge fan of peas and with their inherent sweetness find them hard to resist. They are relatively trouble-free to grow so I plant quite a large crop each year. I love the taste of freshly podded peas and will admit that many of them are eaten as they are being picked. The sugars in fresh peas quickly turn to starch after picking but luckily frozen peas work just as well in this recipe, so feel free to use whichever you like.

 

The accompanying dip, simply flavoured with harissa paste, contrasts wonderfully with the sweetness of the peas and its light pink colour looks fabulous against the intense green of the falafel.

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

Pea Falafel:

300g fresh peas, podded (or frozen peas)

1 tblsp vegetable oil

2 shallots, finely chopped

1 red chilli, finely chopped

1 tsp ground cumin

1 large handful of mint, finely chopped

1 tblsp sesame seeds

50g fresh breadcrumbs

1 large egg

Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

4-5 tblsp vegetable oil for shallow frying

 

Harissa Dip:

150g natural Greek-style yoghurt

1 tblsp harissa paste

 

METHOD:

 

Pea Falafel:

1. Place fresh peas (if using) in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and allow to simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and drain. If using frozen peas, place in a bowl and cover with boiling water and allow to defrost. Drain and set aside.
2. Place the vegetable oil in a small frying pan over a moderate heat and gently cook the shallot for a couple of minutes until beginning to soften. Add the chilli and cumin and cook for a further minute.
3. Place the shallot mixture and the peas into a food processor and pulse a few times to break the peas down and mix everything together. Add the chopped mint, sesame seeds, breadcrumbs, egg and pulse again to form a chunky paste. Do not purée the peas as you want them to retain a bit of texture.
4. To fry the falafel, heat a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a moderate heat. Drop a tablespoons of the falafel mixture into the oil and fry for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Place onto a plate lined with kitchen roll to drain. Place in a warm oven so that they don't go cold. Fry the falafel in batches until all the mixture has been used up. Serve warm with some of the harissa dip.

 

Harissa Dip:

1. Mix the yoghurt and harissa paste together and place in a bowl alongside the falafel.

Makes 16-18 falafel.

 

 

Recipe: Garden Pea Soup with Sourdough Croutons

This is one of my favourite soups and the fact that it is so easy to make, means that it is even more appealing. You could use freshly podded peas but to be honest, frozen peas are just as good and so convenient. The sourdough croutons add a little bit of texture and along with some peas left whole give the soup substance. This is a wonderful summery soup but the fact that it uses frozen peas means that it can be made at any time of year.

 

I used vegetable stock but this soup is also lovely made with stock left over after boiling ham or bacon.  

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

Sourdough Croutons:

250g stale sourdough bread cut into 2cm cubes

2 tblsp olive oil

Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

 

Garden Pea Soup:

25g butter

1 large onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

500ml vegetable stock

500g frozen peas

Large bunch of fresh mint, leaves only roughly torn

Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

 

To finish:

100g frozen peas

50ml double cream or crème fraîche

Pea shoots for garnish

 

METHOD:

 

Sourdough Croutons:

1. Heat oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas mark 4. Put the cubes of bread in a roasting pan and toss in the olive oil. Season well. Place in pre-heated oven for 15-20 minutes, giving them a toss halfway through, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

 

Garden Pea Soup:

1. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over a moderate heat. Add the onions and crushed garlic and fry gently for about 5 minutes until softened but not coloured.
2. Add the stock and increase the temperature until the stock is boiling. Add the peas and cook for 3-4 minutes until the peas are tender. Remove from the heat. Add the mint and season generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
3. Purée the soup in batches by filling a blender/food processor one third full and puréeing until smooth. Pass through a sieve (for a super smooth soup) into a clean saucepan. Check for seasoning and adjust as necessary. 

 

To finish:

1. Add the remaining frozen peas and heat the soup gently over a moderate heat but do not allow to boil or it will lose its lovely green colour. Serve in bowls with a swirl of cream or crème fraîche, some croutons and a few pea shoots.

Serves 6.