Recipe: Plum Frangipane Tart with Buttermilk Ice-Cream

Frangipane tarts are so versatile and can be adapted to use whatever fruits are in season. Stone fruits work particularly well, as do pears, apples and soft fruits like raspberries. You can also use other ground nuts in place of the ground almonds in the frangipane filling to complement the fruit that is used. A particular favourite of mine is ground hazelnuts with pears. I am keeping it simple here and using a classic almond frangipane topped with sliced plums.

The thing that I love most about this tart is the fact that the pastry does not require blind-baking beforehand; the filling goes into the unbaked pie shell which makes life incredibly easy.

 

I have also included my recipe for buttermilk ice-cream which is lovely and refreshing and something a little different.

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

Plum frangipane tart:

Pastry:

175g plain flour

50g icing sugar

100g butter, cubed

1 large egg yolk

1tblsp water

Frangipane:

125g butter, softened

125g caster sugar

125g ground almonds

2tblsp plain flour

1tblsp Amaretto (optional)

To finish:

5 plums, stoned and halved and then cut into quarters

 

Buttermilk Ice-Cream:

250ml double cream

4 large egg yolks

115g caster sugar

250ml buttermilk

100ml crème fraîche

A squeeze of fresh lemon juice

 

METHOD:

 

Plum frangipane tart:

Pastry:

1. Sieve the flour and icing sugar together into a large mixing bowl. Add the cubed butter and rub into the flour and icing sugar using your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.
2. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yolk and water. Mix using a fork until the mixture comes together to form a dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured work-surface and knead briefly. Form into a ball. Wrap in cling-film and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes in order to give the pastry a chance to relax.

Frangipane:

1. Place, the butter and caster sugar into a mixing bowl and, using a hand-held electric mixer, beat together until light and fluffy. Add the ground almonds and mix until fully incorporated. Mix in the eggs and then add the flour and Amaretto and mix these through also. Set aside until required.

To finish:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4. Roll the pastry out thinly on a clean lightly floured work surface and use to line a 20-23cm round fluted tin with removable base or an oblong tranche tin.
2. Spoon the frangipane into the pastry shell and smooth it out to the edges in an even layer with a spatula. Arrange the sliced plums on top of the frangipane.
3. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 35-40 minutes until golden brown and the frangipane has risen slightly and feels spongy to the touch.
4. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature before serving.

Serves 8.

 

Buttermilk Ice-Cream:

1. Place the cream in a medium-sized saucepan and bring up to boiling point and then immediately remove from the heat.
2. Meanwhile whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a medium sized bowl until well mixed together. Gradually pour the hot cream onto the egg yolk mixture, whisking continuously.
3. Return the mixture to the saucepan and place over a low-to-moderate heat. Stir constantly (about 10 minutes) until the mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain the mixture into a clean bowl and allow to cool to room temperature.
4. Add the buttermilk, crème fraîche and lemon juice and mix everything together. Refrigerate until cold and then churn in an ice-cream maker according to the instructions.

Makes 750-800ml approximately.

 

Book Review: Simple: Effortless Food, Big Flavours by Diana Henry

Simple: Effortless Food, Big Flavours is Diana Henry’s tenth book and in it she revisits many of the themes that were first set out in an earlier book - Cook Simple, which she wrote as a harried new mother with little spare time to cook the elaborate meals she had favoured before her baby son was born. Despite the demands of motherhood, Diana wanted food that was still delicious to eat but easier to prepare. Her son Ted is now 18 but the no-nonsense approach that she developed when he was an infant is something that has underpinned her recipes ever since.

Born and raised in Northern Ireland, Diana Henry grew up in a family where home-cooked meals were standard. An exchange trip to France in her teens introduced her up to new flavours and her love affair with food began in earnest. On leaving school, she studied English Literature at Oxford before moving to London to pursue post-graduate studies in Journalism. In London, with its melting pot of cultures, she further expanded her culinary horizons trying out Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern food for the first time.

 

Diana Henry

Diana is a busy woman. In addition to her weekly food column in The Sunday Telegraph, she regularly contributes to other publications and when she can, she hosts radio programs. However, her cookbooks are central to the work that she does. Although her previous books have covered topics as diverse as gastropub food and winter-inspired recipes from North America and Northern Europe, they all have one thing in common; they are written with passion. Moreover, she has a real understanding of the requirements of home cooks and this comes through in all her writing. It is easy to see why her books have won numerous awards. Her last book ‘A Bird in the Hand’, a collection of creative chicken recipes, won the prestigious James Beard award in 2016.

Carrot Houmous

The title of Diana’s latest book explains exactly what it is all about; flavoursome, fuss-free recipes. In many ways, food is a barometer of society’s changing tastes and fashions and the recipes in Simple reflect this. Many of them incorporate ingredients that seemed exotic a few years ago but are becoming increasingly commonplace in our kitchens. These ingredients are used in the recipes in a way that makes sense and without being contrived or pretentious.

 

Simple contains more than 150 recipes with chapters covering Salads and Toast as well as Pulses, Pasta & Grains. However meat-lovers need not worry because there are also chapters on Fish, Chops & Sausages, Roasts and Chicken. The book finishes with a brace of chapters entitled Fruit Puddings and Other Sweet Things. The opening chapter on Eggs includes some interesting new recipe ideas using this most humble of ingredients. I was particularly drawn to the Persian-Inspired Eggs with Chillies – a dish full of Eastern promise - which involved pan-frying the eggs with spinach, Medjool dates and spices. An equally intriguing dish of Eggs with Peppers and ‘Nduja (a spicy pork paste from Calabria) also managed to get my gastric juices flowing.

 

Carrot Houmous

I couldn’t wait to get stuck in and try out some of the recipes. In truth, I can see myself trying most of them out at some point but for the purposes of this review decided to pick a representative cross-section beginning with the Carrot Houmous, Roast Tomatoes & Harissa Yogurt - an interesting alternative to a classic houmous.

 

The houmous was incredibly easy to make and used ingredients that I already had in my pantry. Carrots were peeled and chopped before being simmered in a pan of water until tender. They were then blended in a food processor together with canned chickpeas, tahini, olive oil and lemon juice. Gently spiced with cumin, the houmous was absolutely delicious and I thought the suggested accompaniments of roasted tomatoes and harissa yogurt were just perfect with it.

 

Pork Chops

The beautiful images in the book by photographer Laura Edwards further tempt the taste buds. I was irresistibly drawn to the look of the Pork Chops with Mustard & Capers so decided to try it out for myself. Most people think of capers as a garnish – something strewn like confetti on top of smoked salmon or as part of an antipasti platter but here they were an integral part of the dish imparting saline pops of flavour to the rich and creamy sauce that accompanied the pork chops. I’m struggling to find words to describe this dish because it was just heavenly; deeply savoury, quick-to-make and… oh… SO tasty! I have made it on numerous occasions since getting my hands on Simple. A recipe for Coffee-Brined Pork Chops with Hot Sweet Potatoes also sounds fascinating so I plan to make it soon.

 

Smoked Sausage

Next, I made the Smoked Sausage with Split Pea Purée & Caraway Butter. It’s probably something to do with my memories of the caraway cake that my grandmother used to make, but I have always been a huge fan of anything flavoured with this fragrant, slightly bitter spice. Again, I had most of the ingredients to hand but had to buy the smoked Morteau sausage. This was poached whilst the yellow split peas simmered on the hob and everything was brought together with a sauce simply made from toasted caraway seeds and butter. This dish was, without a doubt, one of the most delicious things that I have eaten this year and I can see it becoming a new family favourite.

 

Roast Apricot & Orange Blossom Fool

To finish my recipe road-test, I made the Roast Apricot & Orange Blossom Fool. Here halved apricots were roasted in a dish with a splash of wine and seeds scraped from a vanilla pod before being puréed and folded through some double cream and Greek Yoghurt. Served in bowls and topped with roasted apricot halves this was a wonderfully elegant dessert. What I like so much about this recipe is the fact that it can be easily adapted to include other fruits that are in season.

 

Without exaggeration, I truly believe that Simple is a seminal cookery book. The recipes in it are contemporary but the ideas behind them are timeless. It is a book that sits comfortably with the realities of modern living and contains recipes that are straightforward but never compromise on taste. This is a book that truly stands out from the tens of thousands of cookery books that are published every year and I believe every kitchen should have a copy. Put it on your Christmas lists!

 

This review first appeared in TheTaste

 

Simple: Effortless Food, Big Flavours by Diana Henry is available to buy here.

 

Simple by Diana Henry

Restaurant Review: Eala Bhán, Sligo

Over the past couple of years I have eaten in and reviewed many restaurants around Ireland for TheTaste; not just those located in Dublin and the country’s larger cities but also many in our smaller towns and in the countryside. However, living in Connaught I will admit that I always jump at the chance to try out restaurants in the West of Ireland. I fervently believe that there is great food being produced all around this island and that this is something that should be nurtured and celebrated.

Eala Bhán Dining Room

One place that is really developing a vibrant food culture is Sligo. The Sligo Food Trail was launched by local food producers and restaurateurs over the summer with the aim of showcasing the county’s rich gastronomic heritage and promoting it as a foodie destination. I love Sligo and as the Town is a relatively short drive from my home in Roscommon, I decided to visit there to have dinner in Eala Bhán recently.

Eala Bhán is situated in the heart of the town beside the Garavogue River - a location that, for me, has echoes of the Left Bank in Paris. White swans can often be seen swimming along the river and it is from them that the restaurant takes its name as Eala Bhán translates from the Irish as ‘the white swan’. The restaurant is owned by Sligo native Anthony Gray who also owns Trá Bhán in nearby Strandhill. As the current President of the Restaurants Association of Ireland Anthony is a well-known figure in the Irish hospitality industry but it is his support of the local food scene that has seen his two restaurants go from strength-to-strength, garnering many awards along the way.

Amuse Bouche

The restaurant closed for a while towards the end of 2015 due to an early-morning fire that broke out on the premises. The fire caused extensive damage but thankfully, after the necessary renovation works were carried out, Eala Bhán re-opened and it continues to be one of the town’s most popular dining spots. Inside it is decorated in neutral, muted tones. Fairy lights behind gauze curtains cast a magical glow over the elegantly designed dining room whilst quotes from the writer W.B. Yeats - one of Sligo’s most famous sons - are inscribed on the walls. I couldn’t help but smile at a large 3-D wall sculpture of a white swan ‘launching’ itself into the dining room above one of the tables and sitting opposite it during my meal I found myself mesmerised by its imposing presence.

Trio of Duck

Eala Bhán opens for Lunch each day, serves Afternoon Tea and also offers Early Bird and À La Carte Menus in the evening. The restaurant prides itself on serving locally-sourced Irish food and glancing through the menu this is immediately evident, with local suppliers credited throughout. We chewed on a well-made white bread which was accompanied by  homemade pesto and butter whilst we examined the menus, eventually deciding to go À La Carte.

First up was an amuse bouche of Sweet Potato Soup which was served in an espresso cup. It was well-seasoned, flavoursome and warming, giving us a sense of the food that was to follow. Both starters were sizeable; not that we were complaining as we had arrived with good appetites. My Lemon Buttered Scallops (€11.95) was a lovely dish comprising three wonderfully plump and perfectly cooked scallops with a lovely caramelised exterior giving way to a soft centre, full of the sweet tastes of the sea. A saffron aioli was a fragrant accompaniment whilst a pea purée accentuated the inherent sweetness of the scallops. However, it was the slightly acidic apple chutney which, along with the lemon, counterbalanced the overall richness and brought everything alive on the palate.

Pork Fillet

Across the table, my guest’s Trio of Duck & Cashel Blue Cheese Ice-Cream (€11.95) was a quirky dish but one that successfully showcased the wonderful quality of the duck that was used. A velvety smooth homemade duck liver pate had been well-made and was delicious eaten with the thin slices of toasty bread and red onion marmalade supplied but we both agreed that the spring roll with its unctuous filling of soft leg-meat and the thin slices of smoked duck breast were the stars of the show. Both were outstanding. I felt that the little side-salad of delicately dressed leaves and red onion was unnecessary and that the unusual and extremely moreish Cashel Blue cheese ice-cream was sufficient.

Irish Cider Onion Rings

Moving on to the main course, the Eala Bhán Pork Fillet (€22.95) with its crust of crushed pistachio nuts immediately caught my eye. The pork has been supplied by Feeneys of Sligo pork fillet and had been sensitively cooked so that the meat retained moisture and was succulent. It was served on a bed of buttery mashed potato which included a generous amount of black pudding. A cherry sauce containing loads of whole cherries and an earthy parsnip purée completed the dish. To accompany my pork, I ordered a side of Irish Cider Onion Rings (€3.50) which were amongst the best that I have ever eaten, with a crisp batter coating and a centre of sweet, hot onion.

Halibut with Asparagus Risotto

For his main course, my guest decided on the Catch of the Day - Halibut with Asparagus Risotto (€25.95). Here two pieces of halibut were served with a perfectly made, creamy asparagus risotto. The fish had  been  nicely seasoned and pan-fried so that its skin was delightfully crispy which contrasted nicely against the softness of the fish. Baby carrots poached in blackcurrant juice were an unusual accompaniment by we both liked how the sourness of the blackcurrants worked with the sweetness of the carrots. This was a great dish. Twice Cooked Fat Chips (€3.50) were everything that a good chip should be - well-seasoned and crunchy on the outside with a soft, fluffy centre.

Mini Baked Alaska

The Dessert Menu in Eala Bhán is jam-packed with a good selection of classic crowd-pleasers. I quickly decided on the Mini Baked Alaska (€7.95) and it did not disappoint. I love retro desserts and this one, in its simplicity ticked all the right boxes for me. It was made up of a disc of sponge cake topped with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream which was covered in Italian meringue before being blow-torched to lightly toast and colour the meringue. The contrasts presented by the toasted meringue and the cold ice-cream has always been something that I find irresistible and this was a very good version. A soft fruit coulis and fresh strawberries completed the dish.

My guest decided on the Eala Bhán Eton Mess (€7.95) - an interesting reworking of this classic dessert where strawberries which had been macerated in port and bananas were folded along with crushed homemade meringues into some lightly whipped cream.  A warm milk chocolate sauce completed proceedings and was an unusual addition.

Eala Bhán Eton Mess

Eala Bhán has a carefully chosen wine list with many wines also available by the glass. From it we chose a 2014 Saint Florin Bordeaux - a blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes which, with its soft fruits flavours, went particularly well with the duck and my pork fillet dish.

It is not hard to see why Eala Bhán is so popular both with locals and with visitors to Sligo as the restaurant is serving some really great food. I loved the cosy but classy feel of the restaurant and the warm welcome we received from our waitress Claudine who helped make our night so enjoyable. Anthony Gray has assembled a great team around him including Head Chef Marcin Szczodrowski and Pastry Chef Elina Aleksandrova. If you are in Sligo, make sure to book a table at Eala Bhán.

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

 

Lunch Menu 12pm – 3pm

Sunday Lunch 12:30pm – 3pm

Early Bird 5pm – 6:30pm           

A-La Carte 5pm – 9:30pm

Afternoon Tea 12pm – 3pm

 

Eala Bhán

Rockwood Parade

Sligo

County Sligo

 

Telephone: 0719145823

Website: www.ealabhan.ie

 

Eala Bhán Dining Room

 

Recipe: Chicken with Chorizo, Butter Beans & Kale in a Cider Sauce

Chicken is a hugely versatile ingredient and it is incredibly popular with my family who are - to put it bluntly - fussy eaters. My children do love spicy food and I tend to cook a lot of chicken curries for them but in an effort to introduce them to other flavours I decided to create this dish using chorizo for an alternative spicy kick.

 

I also included some butter beans, a pulse which I love but I think is often overlooked. I was concerned that my gang would complain about the inclusion of the beans but they loved them. To make life easy, I used canned beans, but you can of course soak and prepare your own beans and then add them to the dish.

 

Serve this dish with crusty bread to mop up the broth-like sauce.

 

INGREDIENTS:

2tblsp vegetable oil

1 chicken jointed or 6 x chicken breast, bone-in and skin-on

200g cooking chorizo, sliced into 5mm discs

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 bay leaves

500ml dry cider

250ml chicken or vegetable stock

Large bunch of kale, roughly chopped

1 x 400g tin of butter beans, drained and rinsed

Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

 

METHOD:

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Season the chicken pieces and fry off in batches until golden brown all over ( about 3 minutes each side). Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl.
2. Add the chorizo to the frying pan and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden. Tip into the bowl with the chicken.
3. Add the onion to the frying pan and fry over a gentle heat for 8-10 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and fry for a further minute.
4. Increase the heat and immediately add the cider, scraping the bottom of the frying pan to dislodge any encrusted sediment from the cooking of the chicken and chorizo. Let the mixture bubble away vigorously for five minutes and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Return the chicken and chorizo to the pan.
5. Add the bay leaves and stock. Cover and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Remove the lid and add the drained butterbeans. Simmer, uncovered for a further 10 minutes. Add the kale which will immediately start to wilt. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning as necessary.
6. Serve in bowls with lots of crusty bread on the side.

 

Serves 6.