Sunday, 10 May 2015

Lemon & Yuzu Juice Meringue Pies

I have always had a soft spot for Lemon Meringue Pie (or LMP); on the one hand it looks  frivolous and decadent in a very retro way but, on the other, when made well with REAL lemons, it is full of beautifully balanced flavours and textures. We have the good ol’ U. S. of A to thank for this wonderful pie; this is not some effete and delicate piece of French patisserie but rather a confection that shouts ‘look at me’! Whilst meringue-topped lemon pies do have their origins in French cookery, they are not the pies that I’m thinking of here. No! LMP is brash, it’s ostentatious and I love the big, bold beauty of it with the soft meringue piled mile-high on top of the set lemon custard enriched with butter and egg yolks which also serve to intensify the golden yellow colour.
 
America may claim Apple Pie as its national pie but for me I always associate LMP with the States as it was in a 1960s magazine article celebrating American Independence Day that my grandmother first came across the recipe that she used to make it from, from that day forward… and believe me she was regularly asked to make it for family occasions and get-togethers. Her LMP was legendary and much beloved by friends and family.
 
After the austerity of the post-War period in much of Europe, LMP must have seemed so extravagant and hedonistic but, that’s exactly what I find so appealing; it IS over-the-top and it is definitely self-indulgent but it also tastes so darn delicious! For a lemon lover like me there can be no better dessert.
 
Although I usually prefer to make one large single pie, here I have made 6 smaller but generously sized individual pies – there’s just something so nice about being served something that’s all for you!
 
I was recently given a bottle of yuzu juice, possessing an intensely citrus flavour which is hard to describe (somewhere between that of grapefruit and mandarin mixed together) and decided to add some of this to the pie filling. I loved the resulting flavour combination which somehow managed to make the lemon taste more of lemon, but with a background fragrance that hinted at the exotic. I would have loved to have used freshly squeezed yuzu juice, but unfortunately it is a fruit which, originating from Japan is somewhat challenging to source on this side of the world. If you don’t have yuzu juice you can of course leave it out and you will still have the most delicious Lemon Meringue Pie(s).

Ingredients:

Pastry:
200g plain flour
50g icing sugar
85g butter, cubed
1 egg yolk
1-2 tblsp cold water
Filling:
2tblsp cornflour
100g caster sugar*
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
125ml lemon juice
50ml yuzu juice (optional) or use same amount of lemon juice instead*
150ml water
85g butter
1 large egg
3 egg yolks
Meringue:
4 egg whites
200g caster sugar
2tsp cornflour

*If using lemon juice instead of the yuzu juice increase the sugar for the filling to 115g
 

Method:

Pastry:
1. Sieve the flour and icing sugar into a large mixing bowl. Add the butter and using your fingertips, rub it into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
2. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yolk and cold water. Using a fork, mix everything until it comes together and forms a dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly to shape into a ball. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
To blind-bake the pastry:
3. Preheat oven to 200C/Fan Oven 180C/Gas Mark 6.
4. Roll out the pastry to about ½ cm thick and use to line 1 x 23cm round fluted flan tin with removable base or 6 x 10cm individual tins (about 4cms deep). Trim and neaten the edges and pr1ck the pastry base(s). Fill with crumpled non-stick baking parchment and then fill this with baking beans.
5. Place the flan tin(s) on a large baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, before carefully removing the baking parchment and beans and baking for a further7-8 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown and cooked through. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.
6. Lower the oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4.
To make the filling (do this while the pastry is blind-baking):
7. Place the cornflour, sugar and lemon zest into a medium sized saucepan and gradually add the lemon juice. Add the yuzu juice (or more lemon juice) and the water and place over a moderate heat.
8. Stir the mixture constantly until it starts to simmer and begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and add the butter, mixing it in until it is fully incorporated. Next, add the whole egg, the egg yolks and mix in thoroughly with a small whisk. Return the mixture to a low heat and stir until the mixture begins to thicken significantly.
9. Remove from the heat and set aside while you make the meringue.
To make the meringue:
10. Place the egg whites in a scrupulously clean, large mixing bowl and whisk to the soft peak stage using a hand-held electric mixer. Add the sugar gradually whisking well after each addition. Sift in the cornflour and whisk this in also until completely incorporated.
To finish:
11. Pour the lemon filling into the baked pastry case(s). Top the lemon filling with the meringue – either spooning it on or piping it - starting at the outside edge and moving towards the centre. Return the pie to the oven for approximately 20 minutes or until the meringue is a very pale golden colour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a couple of hours before serving.

Makes 6 individual small pies or 1 x 23cm pie.
 

Thursday, 7 May 2015

Apple Turnovers

Shhhh… I’ll let you in on a little secret… You can make these Apple Turnovers using bought puff pastry! Shocking, I know! The truth is; yes… I do make my own puff pastry from time-to-time, but more often than not, I buy an all-butter version which I find more than adequate for most of my baking needs. Making your own puff pastry is actually relatively simple to do but it you need to have some spare time so that the dough can relax and chill between folding.

If you do use pre-prepared puff pastry, this is a very easy recipe to conjure up and it takes relatively little effort to produce these pastries which taste delicious. I have kept everything very simple and have filled them with lightly cooked apple flavoured with cinnamon, but you can vary the fruits, depending on what takes your fancy or what you have to hand. The turnovers make a lovely sweet breakfast treat or mid-morning snack with a cup of coffee or tea, but can of course be enjoyed at any time of the day. They are easy to transport and would be wonderful for a picnic.

I like to eat the turnovers when they are still slightly warm from the oven but they are also delicious eaten at room temperature.
 
Whilst I have suggested using commercially made puff pastry here, you can by all means try making your own and in fact, I think that it is something that any keen baker should try at least once. I’ll be posting my recipe and the various stages involved in making puff pastry, in the next couple of weeks, but any good book about baking techniques should have a recipe and instructions in it.
 

Ingredients:

Apple filling:
6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped into small cubes (about 1cm)
25ml apple juice
Juice of 1 lemon
75g caster sugar
½tsp ground cinnamon
To assemble:
375g puff pastry (preferably all-butter)
A little beaten egg for glazing
To finish:
50g icing sugar
½tsp water
 

Method:

Apple filling:
1. Place all the ingredients for the apple filling in a medium sized saucepan and place over a high heat. Bring up to simmering point and then reduce the temperature so that the apples are gently simmering away. Do not cover the saucepan. Allow to simmer for approximately 10-12 minutes until the apples are tender, but are not disintegrating and turning into a purée. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.
2. Preheat oven to 200C/Fan Oven 180C/Gas Mark 6. Line a large baking tray with a sheet of non-stick baking parchment and set aside.
To assemble:
3. Using a rolling-pin, roll the puff pastry out on a lightly floured work-surface into a rectangle approximately 45cms x 30cms and about ½cm thick. Trim any rough edges and then divide into 6 squares (15cms x 15cms).
4. Brush the edges of each square with a little water, using a pastry brush. Place a large tablespoon of the apple mixture in the centre of each square and then bring one corner, diagonally over to meet the opposite corner, pressing the edges together to seal. Place sideways, flat on the tray and make a small hole in the top layer of pastry to allow steam to escape.
5. Brush each turnover with a little beaten egg to glaze. Bake in the preheated oven for approximately 20 minutes until the turnovers have puffed up and are a rich golden brown colour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking tray.
To finish:
6. Mix the icing sugar and water together and drizzle over the cooled turnovers.

Makes 6.
 

Wednesday, 6 May 2015

Scones

So… do you pronounce it ‘skown’ or ‘skon’? This is only one of many contentious issues concerning these little breads (or are they cakes?) but one thing is certain; a well-made scone is indeed a wondrous thing to behold! Unfortunately, all too often they are leaden lumps of dough which sit heavily on the stomach after ingestion!
 
On the face of it, scones should be simple to make as they contain relatively few ingredients and are allegedly ‘easy to make’ from staple ingredients many of us have in the larder! Why then is success not guaranteed as standard? I have a theory on why this is; so-called ‘simple’ recipes that use few ingredients and involve simple processes reveal any inadequacies in the quality of those ingredients or lack of care in preparation resulting in ultimate failure or an end product that is less than might be desired. There is nowhere to hide with simple recipes.
 
Many articles and books have been written on how to produce the perfect scone; one that is fluffy and light and stands proudly aloft, ready to be split in two and each half topped with butter, jam, cream etc. I have done a lot of research on scone-making in recent weeks, have tried out a number of different recipes and after a lot of experimenting and tweaking have settled on this one as being closest to what I want from a scone. I’m not going to replicate that research here, but if you are interested in reading a very good article about this very subject, I strongly recommend How to Make the Perfect Scone by Felicity Cloake in her weekly column on the Guardian’s Word of Mouth blog.
 
Yep… I think it’s fair to say that scones have been on my mind recently! This is mainly because, at the moment, I am a little obsessed with all things to do with afternoon tea, the success of which – in my humble opinion - depends on the quality of the scones on offer. Afternoon tea is something I just love. I salivate over a well-chosen array of finger sandwiches and luxuriate in the cakes and pastries that are offered, but what I am always most keen to sample are the scones. For me, nothing beats a scone still warm from the oven, generously spread with butter, which is just beginning to melt with the residual heat of the scones. Even better, of course are scones served with jam and clotted cream as part of an afternoon tea! Heavenly!
 
The recipe that I give here is for a light and almost fluffy scone, which is barely sweet. My recipe includes sultanas, but if you absolutely hate them, leave them out and just follow the rest of the recipe.
 
If I had to give my top tips, they would be to handle the dough as little as possible and only LIGHTLY dust your work-surface with a little flower to facilitate the rolling-out of the dough. This recipe hasn’t failed yet for me, so I hope you will try it out and enjoy it as much as I do.
 

Ingredients:

450g self-raising flour
1tsp baking powder
75g butter, cubed
35g caster sugar
115g sultanas/raisins
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
175ml milk
To finish:
A little milk for brushing the tops of the scones
 

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 200C/Fan Oven 180C/Gas Mark 8. Line a baking tray with a sheet of non-stick baking parchment.
2. Sieve the flour and baking powder into a large mixing bowl and add the butter. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and sultanas and mix through with your hands so that they are evenly distributed. Make a well in the centre. Add the milk and lightly beaten eggs and bring together with the flour, using a fork to create a soft dough. Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly to bring together into a ball.
3. Roll the dough out until it is 3-4cms thick. Then, using a round 7cm cutter, stamp out into rounds, placing each one spaced apart onto the prepared baking tray. Gather together and re-roll any scraps to create extra scones out of the mixture. Place these on the baking tray. Brush the top of each scone with a little of the extra milk.
4. Bake in the preheated oven for 11-14 minutes until well risen and light golden brown in colour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool, though they are fab served still slightly warm. Dust the tops with a little icing sugar just before serving.

Makes 8-10.