Restaurant Review: China Sichuan, Dublin 18

Despite the fact that I lived nearby for many years, China Sichuan is a restaurant that I only visited for the first time recently. Run by Kevin Hui, the restaurant has garnered many awards over the years and is a popular mainstay on the Dublin dining scene. Originally owned by Hui’s parents and located in Stillorgan, the restaurant moved to purpose-built premises in the Sandyford Industrial Estate a few years ago. This somewhat unlikely setting does not appear to have diminished the restaurant’s appeal and on the Wednesday evening that I visited the restaurant was thronged with diners eagerly tucking into their meals. The aromas were enticing and I couldn’t wait to sit down and order something to eat.


Singapore Sling

Inside, the restaurant is decorated in a sleek, modern style, without any of the kitsch décor favoured in so many other Chinese restaurants. We were greeted warmly as we arrived and asked whether we would prefer to be seated in the main dining room or in the outside glass-covered terraced area. We quickly decided on the latter and were shown to our table.

 

In Ireland we are most familiar with the preponderance of sweet and sour sauces and rice-based dishes that are found in the Cantonese region of China. However, given the size of the country, it is not surprising to learn that Chinese cookery is in fact far more complex than the food that many of us are used to. The country is divided broadly into eight regions, each with its own cultural reference points, indigenous ingredients and specific dishes. The Sichuan province in the south-west of the country is known for its assertive, punchy flavours and interesting use of spices, tea and chilli sauces which find their way into many of the dishes on the menu in China Sichuan.



Jasmine Smoked Baby Ribs

In addition to a full à la carte menu there was a smaller Value Menu (available Monday – Wednesday at 2 course for €20 or 3 courses for €25) and also a truncated à la carte selection menu available on the night that we visited.

Although tempted by the very reasonably priced Value Menu we opted to go for the latter and also decided to order a cocktail each from the drinks menu. Made with Bombay Sapphire Gin, Cointreau and pineapple juice, a Singapore Sling (€10.50) was a fruity little number that cooled the heat of the Spicy Beansprouts that we had as an opener to our meal. My guest’s classic cocktail, an Old Fashioned (€10.50) was full of whiskey and was a suitably boozy affair that put a smile on his face.

Both starters were excellent. My guest’s Jasmine Smoked Baby Back Organic Pork Ribs (€9.00) were meaty with a lovely fragrant and fruits sauce with a nice amount of garlic. Ribs can be a little dry and are often swamped in a sauce that deadens the subtle flavour of the meat, but here they had been cooked with care so that the flavoursome meat fell from the bone.
 



Pan-Fried Rabbit

My “Hon Yu Guozi” (€9.50) consisted of poached chicken wontons in a light red oil chilli broth and was top-notch.  This was a bracing dish not for the faint-hearted and full of pungent but sweet garlic which gave way to fiery heat on the palate. I’m not normally a fan of excessively spicy food but this soup was superb and left me feeling that all was right with the world and is a dish that I would order again without question. I thought it was absolutely fantastic and full of layered, nuanced flavours.

China Sichuan has a reputation for serving a wide range of fish and meats and mains included lobster, rack of lamb and an intriguing Pan Fried Rabbit with roasted Green Tea Leaves & Chilli (€18.50). Here small chunks of perfectly tender rabbit were dusted in flour and then pan-fried with roasted green tea-leaves which puffed up and created fragrant textural contrast that made each bite a joy to eat. Judicious use of chilli added background heat whilst toasted sesame seeds lent the dish a delicate smokiness. This was thoughtful cooking where the chef was quite evidently in tune with the inherent qualities of the ingredients being used.

 

3 Pepper Rib-Eye Beef

My 3 Pepper Rib Eye-Beef (€22.50) was another corker of a dish comprising tender strips of rib-eye beef seasoned with ground black pepper, five spice powder and Sichuan pepper and pan-fried with dry chilli. This was a powerful dish but again the flavour of the main ingredient – the beef – shone through. I loved the crusty exterior of the meat which gave way to meat that was still pink in the centre. This was a sophisticated dish and I loved it. With our main courses we shared portions of Steamed Rice (€3.00) and Fried Noodles (€5.00) both of which had been expertly cooked.

 

I adore desserts and love to finish a meal with something sweet but if I’m honest I should admit that as a general rule, I tend to give them a miss in most Chinese restaurants as I find them derivative and uninspiring. However, the menu description of the desserts in China Sichuan sounded too good to pass over and I was delighted with Karen’s Cherry Bombe (€7.50) when it arrived. Named after the restaurant’s pastry chef, the ‘bombe’ was essentially a baked Alaska with a core of cherry ice-cream covered in blow-torched Italian meringue. A garnish of cherry-flavoured chocolate ganache and some griotte cherries completed the dish.

 



Cherry Bombe

The other dessert, Passionfruit Marshmallow (€7.50) was of a similarly high standard and consisted of coils of cloud-like marshmallow and shell-shaped raspberry meringues finished with an intensely flavoured passionfruit espuma.  This was delicious and I could feel all my preconceptions about desserts in Chinese restaurants melting away with each mouthful.

 

I was hugely impressed by my meal in China Sichuan. Service throughout was superb; attentive without being intrusive. I can be a difficult customer because I tend to ask a lot of detailed questions about the ingredients used and cooking methods employed but the knowledgeable staff  seemed thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the food. The food that I ate was truly remarkable on many levels and I particularly enjoyed the modern take on classic Sichuan cuisine. This is high-end cooking that has managed to stay true to its roots and judging by the packed dining room, I’m not the only one who thinks so.

 

China Sichuan

The Forum

Ballymoss Road

Sandyford Industrial Estate

Dublin 18

 

Telephone: 012935100

Website: www.china-sichuan.ie

Passionfruit Marshmallow

 

Article: Fall in Love with Lough Erne Pop-Up Dinner 2016

Anyone who loves food - and Irish food in particular - will know that 2016 has been designated as Northern Ireland’s Year of Food & Drink. Over the course of the past few months there have been many exciting events promoting the North’s vibrant food scene. This initiative has successfully shown that Northern Ireland has many talented chefs and top-class restaurants who are supported by some of the best food producers to be found anywhere in the world.



Canapés

Fermanagh’s food and drinks producers are also playing their part in the Year of Food & Drink. The county is home to many of Northern Ireland’s top restaurants and this coupled with its beautiful countryside makes it a popular holiday destination for many. Fermanagh Lakeland Tourism, in conjunction with the local restaurant industry recently organised Fermanagh Restaurant Week which concluded last weekend with the two-day long Festival Lough Erne.

One of the highlights of the week was a pop-up dinner hosted by Lough Erne Resort which took place in the impressive surroundings of the recently refurbished Enniskillen Castle. Needless to say, I was thrilled to be invited to the dinner and along with the other guests was treated to a truly delicious meal devised by Noel McMeel, Lough Erne’s charismatic and talented Executive Head Chef.

Corned Beef

The evening kicked off in a stylish way with a Drinks Gathering in Enniskillen Castle to the sounds of the Arco String Quartet playing in the background. Guests sipped on glasses of Prosecco and a fruit punch made using MacIvors Artisan Cider. Given my love of Irish gin, I particularly enjoyed the Pimm’s & Lough Erne Gin Cocktail made using Pimm’s No. 1 and the recently launched Boatyard Distillery Gin. Tasty canapés including Local Tomato Essence & Poteen Shot with Dublin Bay Prawn & Toomebridge Eel and Fivemiletown Goat’s Cheese, Garden Green Salad, Dulse & Yellowman, made using locally sourced ingredients, set the gastronomic tone for the evening which carried through to the meal that followed.



Pork Belly

Entitled ‘Fall in Love with Lough Erne’ the dinner took the form of a three-course meal made up of a series of sharing platters. The first-course platters were already laid out on the tables as guests took their seats in the upstairs gallery area in the Castle which was our dining room for the evening. Breads, meats, seafood, salads amongst many other local delicacies packed each table and in no-time-at-all the assembled diners were tucking in and passing around the generously laden platters. The great thing about sharing meals and communal eating of this type is that all tastes and sizes of appetite are catered for and understandably this contributed to the great atmosphere in the room.

The meats were outstanding and included Pat O’Doherty Braised Pork Belly (heavenly with the Spiced Apple Chutney by Erin Grove Preserves), a fabulous Corned Beef & Cabbage and Tedford’s Potted Ham but for me the standout dish of this first course was the Keenan’s Whiskey Cured Irish Salmon with Crispy Capers. The curing process had tenderised the top-quality salmon so that it literally melted in the mouth. Accompanying the seafood and meats were some of Noel McMeel’s signature breads from Lough Erne Resort including a wonderful Curry Bread. Rocket Salad and an Orchard Baby Beets & Apple Salad completed this spread.

Whiskey cured Salmon

Mains Platters included Kettyle Sirloin of Irish Beef, Pat’s Deep Dish Boxty, Roast Carrots and were accompanied by a piquant Horseradish Slaw and rich Beef Gravy. The beef was superb and had been cooked simply but perfectly to highlight its sublime flavour. If this were to be my last meal on earth, I would die a happy woman.

The meal finished with another seemingly simple but delectable dish of Fermanagh Strawberries, Chantilly Cream and a buttery Shortbread Biscuit. Too many chefs tend to overcomplicate dishes and in my opinion the sign of a great chef is one who knows when to reign in these tendencies and who recognises when great ingredients should be allowed to speak for themselves. This takes skill and a true love of the produce being used. Noel McMeel is lucky in that he has a bountiful local larder to choose from but he is also a chef who understands the beauty of the ingredients that he uses. I thoroughly enjoyed this meal and I look forward with great anticipation to the rest that Northern Ireland’s Year of Food & Drink has to offer.

Fermanagh Strawberries

Recipe: Churros

Regular readers will know that I am a huge fan of the Great British Bake Off, a programme where amateur bakers compete to be crowned the Bake Off Champion.

 

The competition takes place over a number of weeks, each of which has a different theme. Topics covered include cakes, biscuits, bread, tarts and this year for the first time ever there was a ‘batter week’ during which the contestants had to make Yorkshire puddings, lacy pancakes and churros.

 

Churros are made from a dough – similar to choux pastry – which is piped into long fingers or into spirals before being deep-fried  and then tossed in cinnamon sugar whilst still hot. They are popular in Spain, Portugal and Latin America where they are often eaten for breakfast with a strong cup of coffee. I love to eat them with a chocolate dipping sauce, but they are also fabulous on their own.

 

This churro dough is incredibly easy to make but as it is quite stiff, some strength is needed when piping the individual churros. Some recipes advocate piping them straight into the hot oil but I find it easier to pipe then out onto a baking tray lined with parchment paper first. Also, although I love the convenience of plastic disposable piping bags, I find that fabric piping bags work best when making churros as they are stronger. Use a scissors to snip each churro once it is the required length.

INGREDIENTS:

250g plain flour, sifted

50g butter

200ml water

1tsp of vanilla extract

 

Chocolate Dipping Sauce:

125g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), chopped into small pieces

250ml double cream

1 tsp vanilla extract

 

To finish:

100g caster sugar

1 tsp ground cinnamon

350ml vegetable oil

 

METHOD:

 

To make the churros:

1. Place the flour into a mixing bowl. Separately, place the butter, water and vanilla extract into a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Immediately remove from the heat and pour into the flour, mixing well with a wooden spoon so that there are no pockets of flour remaining.
2. Let the mixture cool for 5 minutes and then place in a fabric piping bag fitted a large star shaped nozzle. Pipe 15cms lengths of the mixture onto a baking tray lined with parchment paper until all the mixture has been piped. Place the tray in the fridge for 30 minutes as the churros will hold their shape better when they are deep-fried.

 

Chocolate dipping sauce:

1. Place all the ingredients into a small saucepan and heat together over a medium-low heat, stirring constantly to create a smooth sauce. Serve warm alongside the finished churros in a small bowl.

 

To fry the churros:

1. Mix the caster sugar and cinnamon together and place on a large flat bowl.
2. Heat the vegetable oil to approximately 160C in a large heavy-based saucepan and then fry the churros in batches, 3 or 4 at a time until golden brown all over (about 4-5 minutes). Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper before tossing in the sugar and cinnamon mixture.  Serve warm with the chocolate sauce.

 

Makes 15-16 churros.
 

Recipe: Beetroot Cupcakes with Orange & Poppy Seed Icing

We are all so used to carrots being used in baking and whilst Carrot Cake is definitely one of my favourites, I wanted to try something a little different, so I decided to experiment a little by replacing beetroot in my standard Carrot Cupcakes recipe. I felt that a cream cheese icing would clash with the earthy sweet and very distinct flavour of the beetroot, so finished these cupcakes with a simple orange glacé icing and a sprinkling of poppy seeds.

The cupcake batter is quite a deep purple colour prior to baking but this mellows a bit in the heat of the oven. However the beetroot flavour remains wonderfully intense. These cupcakes are incredibly easy to make and a must for anyone who loves beetroot!

Beetroot Cupcakes ingredients

INGREDIENTS:

Cupcakes:

200g self-raising flour, sifted

175g light muscovado sugar

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp ground nutmeg

1 tsp mixed spice

Finely grated zest of 1 orange

2 large eggs, lightly whisked

150ml sunflower oil

200g beetroots, peeled and grated

Icing:

150g icing sugar

Juice of ½ orange

1 tblsp poppy seeds

METHOD:

Prior to baking

Cupcakes:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4 and line a 12-hole muffin tin with cases.
2. Place the flour, sugar, spices, bicarbonate of soda and orange zest in a large mixing bowl and mix briefly with a wooden spoon to combine all the ingredients.
3. Add the lightly whisked eggs, sunflower oil and grated beetroot and mix together until thoroughly combined. Divide the mixture between the cases and bake for approximately 20 minutes until the cupcakes are well risen and a thin skewer inserted into the centre of one comes out clean.
4. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the muffin tin for 5 minutes before transferring the cupcakes to a wire rack to finish cooling.

Icing:

1. Place the icing sugar in a small mixing bowl and add enough orange juice to create an icing with a fluid consistency, but don’t make it too runny. Drizzle some of the icing over each cupcake and scatter over some poppy seeds before the icing sets.

Makes 12 Cupcakes.

The finished Beetroot Cupcakes