Gooseberries are such a great fruit, with an elusive taste, hard to
describe. There are citrus and floral elements and depending on the variety
eaten, they sometimes can be slightly reminiscent of cooking apples. The one
thing that is definitely true about gooseberries is that they are tart and
definitely need a little added sweetness in order to enjoy them to them at
their best. I absolutely love them and each year I look forward to eating them
when they come into season.
I love gooseberry pies, adore gooseberry crumble and go weak at the knees for gooseberry fool, but in the interests of expanding my culinary and gastronomic repertoire, I have been considering other ways in which gooseberries could be used.
I love gooseberry pies, adore gooseberry crumble and go weak at the knees for gooseberry fool, but in the interests of expanding my culinary and gastronomic repertoire, I have been considering other ways in which gooseberries could be used.
Because of their tartness, gooseberries work very well as a sauce to
serve alongside certain rich savoury dishes. One of the best known combinations
is that of gooseberries with mackerel, where the tartness of the gooseberries
cuts through the richness of the oily fish. I love this pairing, but have to
admit, that what I was most interested in exploring were different and unusual ways
of serving gooseberries in sweet dishes.
As is well established at this stage, I love lemon desserts – ANYTHING
sweet with lemon in it! High on my list of favourite lemon desserts is lemon
meringue pie because when well made, there is a flavour balance between the
sour tartness of the lemons and the sugary fluffy meringue. I did a bit of
research on the possibilities of using gooseberries in the place of lemons and
indeed, I came across a number of gooseberry meringue pie recipes on the
internet and was tempted to develop my own version and do a little
experimentation.
I also came across many recipes for gooseberry custard tarts and this
really began to get my taste buds going in anticipation; gooseberries go really
well with custards, cream and yoghurt where the creaminess of the diary
products mitigates the sharpness of the gooseberries somewhat.
The idea of a gooseberry and custard tart really appealed to me, but I
was not ready to let go of the meringue idea completely… so I decided to marry
the two ideas and this tart was born. I subsequently came across a recipe that
Allegra McEvedy had written for The Guardian which was similar to the one that
I present here. In fact, I rather liked her crème patisserie recipe which used
cornflour rather than flour, so decided to borrow it.
I was extremely pleased with how this tart turned out and it is one that
I will definitely make again. There is something just so summery about it and I
defy anyone who is a self-proclaimed loather of gooseberries to try out the recipe
and not be swayed a little in favour of the old goozgog!
Ingredients:
Pastry:175g plain flour
50g icing sugar
100g butter, cubed
1 egg yolk
Crème patisserie:
250ml milk
2 egg yolks
45g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla paste/extract
20g cornflour
Gooseberry filling:
500g gooseberries, topped and tailed
100g caster sugar
2tblsp water
Meringue:
3 large egg whites
175g caster sugar
Method:
Pastry:
1. Sieve the flour and icing sugar into a large bowl. Add the diced butter
and using your fingertips, rub into the flour until the mixture resembles
breadcrumbs.
2. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yolk and water and mix using a
fork until everything comes together. Turn out on to a lightly floured
work-surface sand knead briefly to form into a ball. Wrap in cling film and
place in the fridge to rest for at least half an hour.
3. Place the milk in a medium sized saucepan and bring just up to boiling
point. Separately, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla paste together in a
medium sized bowl until light and creamy. Add in the cornflour and mix again
until fully incorporated. Gradually add the milk, whisking all the time. Return this mixture to the saucepan and set over a moderate eat. Bring up
to the boil, whisking continuously until the mixture starts to thicken. Allow
to bubble for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and using a spatula, scrape the
crème patisserie into a clean bowl. Directly cover the surface of the crème
patisserie with some cling film and allow to cool to room temperature and then
refrigerate until solid.
To blind bake the pastry:
4. Preheat the oven to 190C/Fan Oven 170C/Gas Mark 5.
5. Roll out the pastry thinly on a lightly floured work-surface. Use to line
a 20cm round x 4cm deep tart tin with removable base.
6. Prick the pastry several times with a fork. Place some non-stick baking
parchment on the pastry and then fill with baking beans. Bake in the preheated
oven for about 20 minutes, removing the parchment and baking beans for the
final 5 minutes. The pastry should be cooked and a light golden brown colour.
Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 100C/Fan Oven 80C/Gas
Mark ¼.
Gooseberry filling:
7. Put the gooseberries in a saucepan with the sugar and water and place
over a moderate heat. Bring to a simmer, and then increase the heat so that
they are vigorously bubbling. Stir regularly to ensure that they don’t catch on
the bottom of the pan. Allow to bubble until the mixture is almost jam-like in
consistence (about 15 minutes). Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
Meringue:
8. Place the egg whites in a large clean bowl and using a hand-held electric
whisk to the soft-peak stage. Gradually whisk in the caster sugar to create a
stiff glossy meringue mixture.
9. Pile (or pipe) the meringue on top of the gooseberry mixture making sure
that it is covered completely. Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes and then
remove and allow to cool to room temperature before serving.
To finish:
10. Remove the crème patisserie from the fridge and give it a light whisk to
loosen it up a little. Spread over the base of the blind baked pastry shell.
Next place the gooseberry filling on top, of this spreading it out to the
edges. Finally, pipe or spoon the meringue on top of the gooseberry filling
making sure that it is completely covered. Bake in the preheated oven for 45
minutes until the meringue is crisp and a pale creamy colour. Remove from oven and allow to cool before serving.
Serves 6-8.
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