I
must have been 6 or 7 at the time but I can still vividly recall the taste and
texture of that doughnut even after all these years. It’s almost as if I had
eaten it mere minutes ago. Every doughnut that I have eaten has been judged
against that first one and unfortunately, too often they have not measured up.
I remember the way the fine sugar
crystals clung to the moisture on my lips and how satisfying it was to lick
them off in between taking bites of the pillowy soft doughnut. That doughnut
was eaten in Bewley’s Café in Dundrum, the bustling Dublin suburb, where I grew
up. On that particular day, I was accompanying my grandmother on her daily trip
down to ‘the Village,’ as she called it, to get her ‘messages’. She had popped
into Bewley’s to buy a bag of their coffee beans and in concession to my
persistent begging for a treat, bought me a sugary ring doughnut. I was
initially disappointed as what I had really wanted was one of the iced queen
cakes, but those feeling were quickly forgotten on sinking my teeth into the
doughnut. I absolutely loved it!

I find that using plain white flour
rather than strong flour produces a fluffier result with just a slightly chewy
texture. In addition, I have added the finely grated zest of a lemon which adds
an extra flavour dimension; you can leave this out and leave them plain.
Ingredients:
450g plain flour30g caster sugar plus extra for dusting the finished doughnuts
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
½tsp salt
75g butter, cubed
15g fresh yeast
225ml water
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Method:
1. Place the flour, caster sugar, lemon zest and salt in a large mixing bowl and stir everything with your hands to distribute evenly. Add the butter and run into the flour mixture using your fingertips. Add the water and mix with your hands to form a soft dough.
2. Turn the dough out on to a clean
work-surface and knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and springs
back when lightly poked with your finger. Place into a lightly oiled bowl,
cover with cling film and set aside to rise for about an hour or until doubled
in size.

5. Remove with a slotted spoon and allow to
drain on some absorbent kitchen paper. Roll the fried doughnuts in some extra
caster sugar and serve still warm (although they are also delicious cooled).
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